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Sentinel Spire
Colorado
> Grand Junction…
> Colorado National Mon…
Description
Sentinel Spire is the beautiful free standing spire immediately across the canyon from Independence Monument. Most people approach it by rappelling from a tree at the Visitor's Center on the main rim road...then down climb easy slabs for a few hundred feet to the base of Fast Draw on the north face...or they go around to the south face to do the classic hard then hand crack, Medicine Man, 5.12b, and 4 pitches. The rock is composed of Windgate sandstone, the same as Indian Creek, but it is sandier and more lichen abounds (maybe more weathered). No matter, it is high quality crack climbing in a beautiful and less crowded setting.
[Hide Photo] Approach beta for Sentinel Spire (if you rap in).
[Hide Photo] Chain anchors on Fast Draw. These are the rap route for the spire as well.
[Hide Photo] Photo of me rappelling off the wrong side of the canyon and realizing that my 150' static wasn't reaching the ground. Rappel on the looker's left side of the tower. Photo by Daniel Gallardo @ten…
[Hide Photo] Daniel rappelling to the ledge to approach Medicine Man. I think more people might go climber's left from here, but the tree above gave us the most confidence.
[Hide Photo] The shadow of the Spire shows the height difference between the North (left) and South (right) sides of the rock. Fast Draw cruises up the chilly North, Medicine Man basks in the sun on the South.
[Hide Photo] The place to rap is obvious. From Book Cliffs view, go out as close as you can to the spire. A tree right at the lip provides a good anchor. Rap no more than 100 feet to a fat ledge below, and foll…
[Hide Comment] The directions on this page and on the individual route pages to approach the tower via rappelling are crap. The Visitor Center is NOWHERE NEAR the tower. Also, merely stating, "head to the campground rim and rap" is not very accurate either. Here is the correct info:
Head to Book Cliffs Viewpoint, which is accessed via the same road as the campground but not in the campground. From the viewpoint building, follow a NPS trail down and then hike out as close to the tower as you can, 1 minute from road. Here is a tree that is a good anchor to fix from, and the rap is not long. 100' rope is plenty.
Mar 16, 2014
[Hide Comment] Is it possible to get conditions report for the spire approach? Anyone know if the approach slabs are covered by snow? We hope to climb this Sunday.
Jan 15, 2016
[Hide Comment] Rap at the dead tree (bomber med. nut for backup) and a full 70 will get you down past anything sketchy. I think a 60 will probably make it too, but I haven't climbed on a 60 in ages. If there's snow it won't matter, which I bet there will be.
Jan 16, 2016
[Hide Comment] So what is the wide crack left of Fast Draw? It would apparently go ground-up, and you would not even need to start in on Fast Draw to the pin/bolt traverse that reaches it from near the mid-climb belay. Any ideas?
Mar 19, 2017
[Hide Comment] Set up your fixed line at the prow of the rim that is the furthest point out. There is a sturdy thigh-sized bush/tree right there. This makes it only a 40 foot rap/jug, compared to 100 feet elsewhere. You end up on a ramp which is easy to scramble up and down.
Apr 20, 2021
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Grand Junction
Head to Book Cliffs Viewpoint, which is accessed via the same road as the campground but not in the campground. From the viewpoint building, follow a NPS trail down and then hike out as close to the tower as you can, 1 minute from road. Here is a tree that is a good anchor to fix from, and the rap is not long. 100' rope is plenty. Mar 16, 2014
Moab, UT
Grand Junction, Co
Around Boulder, CO
It would apparently go ground-up, and you would not even need to start in on Fast Draw to the pin/bolt traverse that reaches it from near the mid-climb belay.
Any ideas? Mar 19, 2017
Salt Lake City, UT