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The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse) Rock Climbing
Routes in The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)
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Altoids On the Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baditude S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Up The Hillside S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fire Starter S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Homesteader Burns Up The Hillside, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Homesteader, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Howl Of A Hungry Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Kelp Bed Freak Show S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lady Of The Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lipstick Sunset S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Montana Floodgates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Morning Sunshine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nimby S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nuns on the Beach S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Sundance S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Tanning Block, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Uptown Venus S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Walking On Burning Floodgates S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Walking On The Sun S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Walking with the Homesteader S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Waves of Rays S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Waves on the Beach S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Willie's Wake Up Call Girl S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Elevation: | 7,600 ft |
| GPS: |
40.0057, -105.3953 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 31,202 total · 114/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 - updated
Details
From W. McCurry: As of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed more info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
The Solar Dome is a small, non-descript crag uphill and a bit West of The Upper Security Risk. Really, it looks like a small, improbable blob with little to offer. In fact, The Solar Dome is a well-developed sport crag on short but typical Boulder Canyon granite. Most routes are under 70 feet in length and have been well-bolted. Surprisingly good climbing can be had for such short routes. Since the crag sits on top of the hill, it gets good sun all day long. However, it also picks up most of the bad weather blowing through Boulder Canyon. On a warm summer day, The Solar Dome is a great place to catch the rays and pick off a few good climbs. The climbing is largely 5.10 to 5.12, although a few very moderate lines have been installed. Presently, there are at least twenty routes in place with link-ups possible for many of these.
L->R:
A. Nimby, 7+, 1p, bolts.
B. Montana Floodgates, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Burning Up The Hillside, 11-, 1p, 60' bolts.
D. Sundance, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
EDCB. The Homesteader Burns Up The Hillside, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. The Homesteader, 11+, 1p, bolts.
FEDCB. Walking On Burning Floodgates, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
FE. Walking with the Homesteader, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Walking On The Sun, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
G. Altoids On The Beach, 8, 1p, bolts.
HI. Waves On The Beach, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Waves Of Rays, 10, 1p, bolts.
J. Nuns On The Beach, 11+, 2 starts, 1p, 60', bolts.
K. Kelp Bed Freak Show, 11-, 1p, 55', bolts.
L. Baditude, 10, 1p, bolts.
M. Howl Of A Hungry Cat, 10+, 1p, bolts.
N. Lady Of The Light, 12-, 1p, bolts.
O. Uptown Venus, 11-12, 1p, bolts.
P1. Fire Starter, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
P2. Willie's Wake Up Call Girl, 11+, 1p, bolts.
Q. Morning Sunshine, 7, 1p, bolts.
Below:
AA. Lipstick Sunset, 12, 1p, 30', bolts.
BB. The Tanning Block, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
CC. Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
L->R:
A. Nimby, 7+, 1p, bolts.
B. Montana Floodgates, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Burning Up The Hillside, 11-, 1p, 60' bolts.
D. Sundance, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
EDCB. The Homesteader Burns Up The Hillside, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. The Homesteader, 11+, 1p, bolts.
FEDCB. Walking On Burning Floodgates, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
FE. Walking with the Homesteader, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Walking On The Sun, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
G. Altoids On The Beach, 8, 1p, bolts.
HI. Waves On The Beach, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Waves Of Rays, 10, 1p, bolts.
J. Nuns On The Beach, 11+, 2 starts, 1p, 60', bolts.
K. Kelp Bed Freak Show, 11-, 1p, 55', bolts.
L. Baditude, 10, 1p, bolts.
M. Howl Of A Hungry Cat, 10+, 1p, bolts.
N. Lady Of The Light, 12-, 1p, bolts.
O. Uptown Venus, 11-12, 1p, bolts.
P1. Fire Starter, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
P2. Willie's Wake Up Call Girl, 11+, 1p, bolts.
Q. Morning Sunshine, 7, 1p, bolts.
Below:
AA. Lipstick Sunset, 12, 1p, 30', bolts.
BB. The Tanning Block, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
CC. Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
Getting There
The most hassle free approach to The Solar Dome is to hike up from The Upper Security Risk crag. This adds about 10 minutes to the hike up from Boulder Canyon making the entire walk at least 45 minutes. In the past, it was possible to approach The Solar Dome from the North, parking on the hill just before it drops down to Dream Canyon parking. This entails crossing private land, which has caused some trouble in the past several years and is to be avoided if possible. That said however, we have used the Northern approach after first checking with the landowners.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
Weather Averages
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Photos
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