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Routes in The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)

Altoids On the Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baditude S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burning Up The Hillside S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire Starter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Homesteader, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Howl Of A Hungry Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kelp Bed Freak Show S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lady Of The Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lipstick Sunset S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Montana Floodgates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning Sunshine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nimby S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nuns on the Beach S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sundance S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tanning Block, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Walking On The Sun S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Walking with the Homesteader S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waves of Rays S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waves on the Beach S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Willie's Wake Up Call Girl S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 7,600 ft
GPS: 40.006, -105.395 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 11,060 total, 54/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The Solar Dome is a small, non-descript crag uphill and a bit West of The Upper Security Risk. Really, it looks like a small, improbable blob with little to offer. In fact, The Solar Dome is a well-developed sport crag on short but typical Boulder Canyon granite. Most routes are under 70 feet in length and have been well-bolted. Surprisingly good climbing can be had for such short routes. Since the crag sits on top of the hill, it gets good sun all day long. However, it also picks up most of the bad weather blowing through Boulder Canyon. On a warm summer day, The Solar Dome is a great place to catch the rays and pick off a few good climbs. The climbing is largely 5.10 to 5.12, although a few very moderate lines have been installed. Presently, there are at least twenty routes in place with link-ups possible for many of these.

L->R:

A. Nimby, 7+, 1p, bolts.
B. Montana Floodgates, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Burning Up The Hillside, 11-, 1p, 60' bolts.
D. Sundance, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
E. The Homesteader, 11+, 1p, bolts.
FE. Walking with the Homesteader, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Walking On The Sun, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
G. Altoids On The Beach, 8, 1p, bolts.
HI. Waves On The Beach, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Waves Of Rays, 10, 1p, bolts.
J. Nuns On The Beach, 11+, 2 starts, 1p, 60', bolts.
K. Kelp Bed Freak Show, 11-, 1p, 55', bolts.
L. Baditude, 10, 1p, bolts.
M. Howl Of A Hungry Cat, 10+, 1p, bolts.
N. Lady Of The Light, 12-, 1p, bolts.
O. Uptown Venus, 12, 1p, bolts.
P1. Fire Starter, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
P2. Willie's Wake Up Call Girl, 11+, 1p, bolts.
Q. Morning Sunshine, 7, 1p, bolts.

Below:

AA. Lipstick Sunset, 12, 1p, 30', bolts.
BB. The Tanning Block, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
CC. Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

The most hassle free approach to The Solar Dome is to hike up from The Upper Security Risk crag. This adds about 10 minutes to the hike up from Boulder Canyon making the entire walk at least 45 minutes. In the past, it was possible to approach The Solar Dome from the North, parking on the hill just before it drops down to Dream Canyon parking. This entails crossing private land, which has caused some trouble in the past several years and is to be avoided if possible. That said however, we have used the Northern approach after first checking with the landowners.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walking with the Homesteader
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lady Of The Light
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Walking with the Homesteader 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lady Of The Light 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse) »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
For complete & accurate route info please refer to my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I - Lower Narrows & Dream Canyon". Rick Leitner & I established most of these routes from December 1997 to March 1998. While climbing at Upper Security Risk Crag in December, I noticed the sun stayed on the south-facing wall, that soon became Lady Of The Light on the Solar Dome, until 4:30pm. With the sun setting at Upper Security Risk at 3:45pm, this made the Solar Dome seem rather appealing.

After establishing the first route "Lady Of The Light", we decided to focus our energy toward exploring the Solar Dome. After seeing dozens of parties hike up to Upper Security Risk just to climb "Pup", the only 5.9 sport pitch, I decided the area could use more moderates. There are some excellent 5.10 routes & a few easier pitches. No need to bring any gear, just draws & a rope. "Waves On The Beach" & Altoids On The Beach" are 85 feet in length. Everything else is shorter at 40 to 60 ft, with three short routes of 25 feet on the two large boulders.

The cliff is great for winter sun, but beware the harsh winds. The wind is far colder up here on the rim of the canyon than below. Shade can be found on the right (east) & left (west) side of the crag during the longer days of Spring through Fall. Mar 15, 2017
pfwein
Boulder, CO
pfwein   Boulder, CO
Hmm, no one there (besides me/partner) on a lovely 50 degree (in Boulder, sunny, low wind) late fall Saturday. I guess crowds come and go. Nov 15, 2008
Do the climbing community a favor, drill a few more holes in this and return it back to the rubble heap it is. Dec 2, 2005
Luke  
Climbed in short sleeves on Nov. 20, a day when the Boulder high was forecast around 55 (don't the know actual turned out to be down there but it felt warmer than that here.) Nov 28, 2005
MMmmmm... Warm. Nice place in the cooler months, if there's not much wind. Jan 6, 2003
Nice hike and scenic place to climb moderate routes. Thanks goes out to the people who installed the routes. Good job! Nov 12, 2002
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
Do not think that the long hike will mean fewer crowds! It's a good spot to meet and greet the sport climbing crowd. Oct 29, 2001

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