PRINT: Rock Climbing in Deer Ridge Buttress, Estes Park Valley

Deer Ridge Buttress

Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Deer Mountain

Access Issue: Season raptor closures: March 1 - July 31, NOW LIFTED Details

This crag has been closed March 1 - July 31 for raptor nesting in previous years, although not for the last few years.

For 2018, the closure appears to have been lifted per the NPS website, and the backcountry office (970-586-1242) has confirmed this for 2018.

For more info, see the NPS website:

nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

Description

Deer Ridge Buttress is a high and lonely 600' cliff in the Park that provides beautiful views, excellent climbing on perfect granite, and near certain solitude. It is well worth the longer approach, especially if you do a couple of routes.

Descent: head east from the top, then bushwhack down.

Getting There

2 ways-- 1) park at the Deer Ridge junction trailhead on Trail Ridge Road, follow the Deer Mountain trail for about 1 and 1/2 miles to where it touches the south side of the mountain, then contour around past a smaller buttress (Rainbow Rock) to the base of the cliff. Alternatively, Richard Rossiter (in Rocky Mountain National Park: The Crag Areas) describes the confusing parking arrangements that plant you at the base of a vertical bushwhack (count on an hour) up to the north-facing cliff. You can park near Aspen Glen Campground or near the Estes Park cemetery off Fish Hatchery Rd. and hike uphill (~1 hour).

Routes from Left to Right

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 5 ● Praying Nun Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 1 ● Forrest Solo Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 9 ● Friar's Frontress Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 40 ● Nun Buttress Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 10 ● Center Left Face Trad 4 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 1 ● Deer in the Headlights Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X 1 ● Crystal Balls Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R 1 ● Crystal Ship Trad 4 pitches

● Praying Nun

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad

● Forrest Solo

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad

● Friar's Frontress

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Nun Buttress

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches

● Center Left Face

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches

● Deer in the Headlights

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad

● Crystal Balls

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X Trad 3 pitches

● Crystal Ship

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Deer Mountain Buttress, Rainbow Rock, and a small crag above Deer Mountain Buttress.

This is a chunk of rock above the main Deer Ridge Buttress which may or may not have routes on it.

Deer Ridge Buttress.

Deer Ridge Buttress, N Side Descent.

Deer Ridge Buttress.

Deer Ridge Buttress from campground across Fall River Road.

John Cioci descends, somewhat lost, from the top of Deer Ridge Butress in the Estes Park area. At least the views were great.

Deer Ridge. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Annecone
Boulder, CO

Nice rock and beautiful area with excellent views, stays nice and shady for much of the day. I haven't read Rossiter's approach description from the north, but found a very mellow approach based on the Gillett description. We parked at the Aspen Glen campground, headed down a faint trail east from the SE end of the campground, then went south as soon as you get past the ridge... from there, just head straight up the hill to the bottom of the north face. It took 1 hour at a very moderate pace and could be done in 45 or 50 minutes at a quick pace. Very little to almost no bushwacking, very pleasant approach. Jun 29, 2005

nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO

The quality of the rock here is surprisingly good - very "Lumpy-like".

We approached via the trailhead at Deer Mtn Junction. It wasn't bad at all. After taking the trail all the way up to the 2nd right-hand switchback, strike off thru the woods (to the north) at a level grade - neither gain nor give up altitude. After traversing around to the north side of Deer Mountain (thru mostly open forest - easy walking), encounter a few hundred yards of blow-downs and bushwhacking as the prow of the rock formation starts to be discernable thru the trees. Emerge from the woods onto the talus field at the base of the NW face. Jul 3, 2005

nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO

The rock here is surprisingly good.

We approached via the Deer Mtn Junction trailhead. Took a left at the 2nd right-hand switchback and traversed around to the north side of Deer Mtn. Only the last couple hundred yards before the talus field was anything close to being a bushwhack. Jul 5, 2005

clint dillard
Louisville, Co

We used the Deer Mtn Junction trail as well. We did not leave any gear at the base, so when we topped out, we just hiked southwestish through the woods for 5 or 10 mins till we met back up with the trail. This was a great way to descend. Aug 14, 2006