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Oceanic Wall

Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon

Description

This is another great wall with some nice climbs nearly right off the water. While there is no ocean here, you can have some nice creek-side beach with pretty granite cobbles.

L->R:

A?
B? Belie Black, 8-9?, 1p, bolts.
C. Encore, 11-, 1p, bolts.
D. In Your Dreams, 10, 1p, 90', TR or gear or now bolts.
E. The Deep, 11 or 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. Sargasso Sea, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
G. Challenges of Leisure aka Wake of the Flood, 13, 1p, bolts.
H. Wake of The Flood, 13, 1p, bolts.
I. Leviathon, 11, 1-2p, 80', bolts.
above Dream On, 11, 2nd p variation to G, 1p, 30', bolts.
above Mud Shark, 11+, 2nd p variation to G, 1p, 70', bolts.
J1. Pla Pwy (Sick Fish), 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
J2. Creature From The Black Lagoon, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.
above J2. Dream Come True, 12-, 1p, 35', bolts.
above J2. Nightmare Come True, 12-, 1p, bolts.
above J2. Pound Town, 9+, 1p, 55', bolts.
above J2. Chocolate Nut Factory, 9-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
above J2. Poundcakes, 8+ R, 1p, 60', gear.
K. Twistin' By The Pool, 10+ S, 90', gear, bolts, & pins.
L. Sheik Yer Bouti, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts & pins.
M. Permanent Restraining Order, 11-, 1p, 90', gear.
N1. Shiny Toys, 9, 1p, 80', gear & bolts & pin.
N2. Unknown right of Shiny Toys, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.

EE. Trans-Oceanic Traverse, 11+ S, start with I to C, bolts, pins, & gear.

Getting There

On the far north end of Dream Canyon, on the east side.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Belie Black
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
Encore
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 150
In Your Dreams
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 95
The Deep
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 120
Sargasso Sea
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 22
Challenges of Leisure aka Wake o…
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 83
Leviathan
Sport 2 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 28
Dream On
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 23
Mud Shark
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 43
Creature from the Black Lagoon
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 3
Twistin' By The Pool
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
Shiek Yer Bouti
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
Permanent Restraining Order
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
Shiny Toys
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 9
Unknown right of Shiny Toys
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Dream Come True
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 81
Pound Town
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 63
Chocolate Nut Factory
Trad, Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 4
Poundcakes
Trad
V9-10 7C+
 2
Dreamed Up
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Belie Black
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Encore
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
In Your Dreams
 150
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Deep
 95
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sargasso Sea
 120
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Challenges of Leisure aka W…
 22
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Leviathan
 83
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Dream On
 28
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Mud Shark
 23
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish)
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Creature from the Black Lagoon
 43
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Twistin' By The Pool
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
Shiek Yer Bouti
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Permanent Restraining Order
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Shiny Toys
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Unknown right of Shiny Toys
 9
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Dream Come True
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pound Town
 81
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Chocolate Nut Factory
 63
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Poundcakes
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Dreamed Up
 2
V9-10 7C+ Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper and Lower Dream Canyon<br>
<br>
Modified from original by Vaino Kodas.
[Hide Photo] Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from original by Vaino Kodas.
Upper Dream Canyon topo overview.
[Hide Photo] Upper Dream Canyon topo overview.
Oceanic Wall.
[Hide Photo] Oceanic Wall.
Newer unknown 5.11 on left side of Oceanic.  Fun route!
[Hide Photo] Newer unknown 5.11 on left side of Oceanic. Fun route!
Oceanic Wall, Dream Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Oceanic Wall, Dream Canyon.
Upper Oceanic headwall.<br>
<br>
Photo: Bob Horan.
[Hide Photo] Upper Oceanic headwall. Photo: Bob Horan.
Oceanic Wall, photo: Bob Horan.
[Hide Photo] Oceanic Wall, photo: Bob Horan.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Anybody know what the two routes left of In Your Dreams are? Leftmost seems hardish 11, next route to right seems like 9+. Jul 10, 2011
[Hide Comment] I am not sure who bolted these or what they are called. I do agree, the farthest left one is about 5.9. Immediately right of that route is a newer route, I would say is 11a/b. The right one, which I did yesterday for the first time, is very fun. Watch out for a large loose rock right of the second bolt. There is also a significant run out at the top, albeit easy. The left route is a little more lackluster. Nov 9, 2015
Richard Border
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] How about the right slanting slab pitch two right of Sargasso Sea? Only did the first pitch, and it felt like hard 11 maybe? Mar 14, 2016
[Hide Comment] I haven't done that one yet, Richard. It looks like a good variation and the logical start to Mud Shark, as it follows the same weakness that forms the crux of that route. Seems like linking it would make for a fun and long traversing pitch. Mar 15, 2016