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The Boulderado

Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This south-west facing wall is a [possible] place to take a first-time climber. The staging area and the anchor access make it a potentially hazardous climbing location for the unwary climber. It has a number of easy climbs in close proximity up a clean open wall. Anchor placements are a little tricky though; the ledge up top, while safe, does not afford many things to set up an anchor with. Recommend bringing some long slings, and some cams to do the job right. Top Rope access is via a trail up the talus just left of the rock.

Be EXTREMELY careful accessing the anchors above these climbs if you toprope here. Lethal accidents have occurred too often here.

L->R:

A. Jam It, 8, 1p, gear or TR.
AB. Jam It (Variation) , 5, 1p, 100', gear.
B. Ho Hum, 4, 1p, 100', gear or TR.
C. Idle Hands, 6, 1p, gear or TR.
D. Mons, 5, 1p, gear or TR.
E. Fistula, 3, 1p, 30', gear or TR.

To the right on the block:

F. Qs, 9+, 1p, 65', bolts.
G. Jazz On The Mezzanine, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Hell In A Bucket, 12+, gear or TR.
I. Suite 11, 11, 1p, 60', bolts & gear or TR.

Getting There

About 8.8 miles up the canyon, 200 yards past Practice Rock, there is a large turn out on the left side of the road at the end of a sweeping right hand turn. The rock is directly across the road from the pullout.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 106
Jam It
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 8
Jam It (Variation)
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 103
Ho Hum
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 115
Idle Hands
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 75
Mons
Trad, TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 24
Fistula
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 69
Qs
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Jazz on the Mezzanine
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 2
Hell in a Bucket
Trad, TR
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 2
Suite 11
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jam It
 106
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
Jam It (Variation)
 8
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Ho Hum
 103
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad, TR
Idle Hands
 115
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Mons
 75
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Fistula
 24
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
Qs
 69
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Jazz on the Mezzanine
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Hell in a Bucket
 2
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, TR
Suite 11
 2
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper Narrows topo overview.
[Hide Photo] Upper Narrows topo overview.
1. Jam It, 8.<br>
2. Ho Hum, 4.<br>
3. Idle Hands, 6.<br>
4. Mons, 5.<br>
5. Fistula, 4.
[Hide Photo] 1. Jam It, 8. 2. Ho Hum, 4. 3. Idle Hands, 6. 4. Mons, 5. 5. Fistula, 4.
Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.
[Hide Photo] Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.
Boulderado after 2017 rockfall and scaling.
[Hide Photo] Boulderado after 2017 rockfall and scaling.
This is the new quick link anchor (same bolts) at the top of Idle Hands, 8/6/07.
[Hide Photo] This is the new quick link anchor (same bolts) at the top of Idle Hands, 8/6/07.
New toprope anchors on the Boulderado, at the top of Jam It, Ho Hum, Idle Hands, and Mons.  Red dots show access to anchors.<br>
<br>
Be very careful if you are at the top of this cliff and are not anchored in.<br>
<br>
Please toprope through your own gear, and not directly through the anchor rings.<br>
<br>
Photo by Richard Rossiter.
[Hide Photo] New toprope anchors on the Boulderado, at the top of Jam It, Ho Hum, Idle Hands, and Mons. Red dots show access to anchors. Be very careful if you are at the top of this cliff and are not ancho…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Another great area for taking groups, especially beginners. Plenty of parking and easy approach. Need to be careful as the bottom has some exposure right above the road (it is possible to fall), same applies to setting up top rope anchors, as there is lots of loose footing. Bring long slings or static ropes to set up anchors. Jul 25, 2001
[Hide Comment] Definitely a summer crag. Went here in February and froze my ass off! No sun exposure in fall or winter. Cool place, altogether. Qs is an awesome route, even though I froze trying to climb it. May 18, 2002
[Hide Comment] A note on the history of the Boulderado. Up to 1987, no climbs had been described or published for this now popular formation. During the fall of 1987 when I was collecting data for Boulder Climbs North (published by Chockstone Press), I did solo all the routes shown in your photo. I also soloed the nice face left of Idle Hands. I do not know if any of these routes had been climbed previously. It really doesn't matter. I had never seen a soul on this rock, other than myself, until BCN came out the next spring. From that time on, it has been rather well frequented. I have thought more than once about placing some good bolt anchors at the top of each route, but have never gotten around to it. One reason is that for toproping, such anchors would be a little more dangerous to thread than the usual long slings from boulders and trees used until now. Dec 29, 2002
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
[Hide Comment] Great area and great for beginners but IGNORE the directions used in the Knapp toproping book! The mileages are completely wrong and the map is largely useless. It took us two hours to find the place. (The route beta in the book is okay AFAIK.)

Boulderado is located about a mile up the road from Boulder Falls at a right-hand bend with a ten-car parking area on the left side. The climbing starts from a sloping ledge 40 feet above the road and the rock is obvious. If you hike more than 50', you've gone too far. The walkup for toproping is on the left. Oct 20, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] In mid-March 2007, Richard Rossiter placed four new toprope anchors at the Boulderado, atop Jam It, Ho Hum, Idle Hands, and Mons. The Spot bouldering gym paid for the hardware and asked Richard to install the bolts and rings for the benefit of all users. See .

Richard, who has the first known ascents of these routes, has been thinking about installing anchors here for several years; see .

Please don't toprope directly through the anchor rings; use your own gear instead. And be extremely careful if you are at the top of this cliff and are not anchored in. Personally, I prefer to lead these routes to set toprope anchors. Mar 29, 2007
Mike Pharris
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] One of the bolts at the top of "Idle Hands" is missing a hanger as of July 2, 2007. Still plenty of opportunity for anchors with the boulders and trees, but if you were planning on using the new double bolts - you can't. Jul 3, 2007
[Hide Comment] The missing ring hanger at the top of Idle Hands was replaced with a new quick link set up as of 8/6/07. I also checked the other three anchors for Jam It, Ho Hum and Mons. Everything is tightened down and set with red Locktite...should hold up for a while. Aug 6, 2007
[Hide Comment] Anybody find a pair of Katanas there 9/8/09? Sep 9, 2009
Adamatrix
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Left a rope on top of the Boulderado Wall under the large pine tree. Anybody pick it up Tuesday, July 12, 2011? Any info, please email adamatrix1@gmail. Jul 18, 2011
Jason Watts
Boulder,CO
[Hide Comment] Tie in to something if you are going to place top rope anchors on this cliff. It only took one slip to cause a death on 9-2-12 while trying to set a rope. Sep 4, 2012
Sean Lynn
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] I was at Boulderado 5/30/2017 and explored quite a bit after the rockfall and scaling earlier this year. I would recommend being very careful on this cliff for quite a while. There is quite a bit of debris at the base where belays take place and the area where Ho Hum existed is highly unstable.

I've added a picture showing quite a bit of loose rock still remaining above where you walk through and belay from. There are detached flakes (about where the tree used to be), large and unstable loose rocks (to the right of the Jam It roof).

If you're in this area and decide to climb Jam It, be careful of overhead hazards. If you climb Idle Hands or routes to the right be aware that the unstable rock, should it give way, will likely come down near your belay station. It's also highly likely if you knock rock off the cliff face it ends in the road below. May 31, 2017
Andrew McCallister
Centennial, CO
[Hide Comment] Just a note for you all, we will be taking a group of 12 students from Cherry Creek High School up here to Boulderado on April 14th. Mar 31, 2018