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The Goose

Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This interesting rock is kinda hard to find and has a moderately long approach (by Boulder standards). The routes on it are great and it is worth a visit on a nice Saturday--you won't have to worry about crowds here.

The east face routes are a bit challenging to decipher.

There are seasonal closures, so check with Boulder Mountain Parks

Getting There

From the Fern Canyon Trail, hike up the canyon until you see a clearing to the East. Hike now until you see a wood sign with red paint that says, "Fern Canyon." The trail starts about 50m further up the trail and is marked with a cairn. Follow the talus up to the Goose.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 17
● Love's Labor Lost
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
● Deserted Cities of the Heart
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 2
● Arete
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 16
● Big Bruce
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 20
● Raging Bull (aka Cub)
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 4
● Sweet and Innocent
Trad 2 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 3
● Wild Horses
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
● Skein
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
● Golden Goat
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 9
● Batman
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
● Duck, Duck, Goose
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 4
● South Face
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 1
● South Arete
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
 1
● Loosey Goosey
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 5
● Mother Goose
Trad 4 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 17
● East Face / Goose
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Love's Labor Lost
 17
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
● Deserted Cities of the Heart
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
● Arete
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
● Big Bruce
 16
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Raging Bull (aka Cub)
 20
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
● Sweet and Innocent
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Wild Horses
 3
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad
● Skein
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Golden Goat
 14
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Batman
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
● Duck, Duck, Goose
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● South Face
 4
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
● South Arete
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
● Loosey Goosey
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X Trad
● Mother Goose
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 4 pitches
● East Face / Goose
 17
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From The Slab, 4/11/02.
[Hide Photo] From The Slab, 4/11/02.
The Goose.
[Hide Photo] The Goose.
For the SW face sport routes: after passing The Slab turn and two boulders on the left, leave Fern here, and stay left of the large boulders. Keep left of the talus until traversing the talus seems favorable. Follow along the wall up from Batman
[Hide Photo] For the SW face sport routes: after passing The Slab turn and two boulders on the left, leave Fern here, and stay left of the large boulders. Keep left of the talus until traversing the talus seems…
Duck, duck, G....
[Hide Photo] Duck, duck, G....
Overhanging Rock, The Seal & The Goose (L to R) as viewed from the N/NW. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2006.
[Hide Photo] Overhanging Rock, The Seal & The Goose (L to R) as viewed from the N/NW. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2006.
View of the East Face on the approach from the North East.
[Hide Photo] View of the East Face on the approach from the North East.
[Hide Photo] untitled

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] If you rap the S face from above Arete, Raging Bull, Sweet & Innocent, beware that pulling your ropes can be quite difficult. It may be wiser to rap to the W. Sep 23, 2003
fossana
leeds, ut
[Hide Comment] The most efficient way to get off of the Goose without a rope is to downclimb to the west from the notch between the N and S summits (Sierra class 4). From here, you can drop down the talus past the Fiddlehead to pick up the Fern Canyon trail. This avoids to bushwhacking/scrambling nonsense you would encounter on the north or east sides. Nov 11, 2013
Flatirons Climbing Council
[Hide Comment] One application has been submitted for the current (January 2014) cycle of the Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee application process: on the west face of the Goose.

You can visit flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo… to view it; please post comments below the application or submit them via email to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org. The public vote and meeting will be held Wednesday, February 5, at 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado. Jan 7, 2014
Flatirons Climbing Council
[Hide Comment] There are a handful of new-route applications for the Autumn 2014 cycle of the Flatirons Climbing Committee's Fixed Hardware Review Committee, for the Matron, the Goose, Pebble Beach, and Dinosaur Rock. We will be holding a public meeting and vote on these climbs on Wednesday, September 3, 6:30 p.m. at The Spot gym in Boulder. Please visit flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo…
to review and leave comments on the applications. Aug 4, 2014
Mark Roth
Boulder
[Hide Comment] Shouldn't this be listed under Fern Canyon? Nov 1, 2017
Mark Roth
Boulder
[Hide Comment] There is a new route application submitted for the August 2020 cycle of the FCC's Fixed Hardware Review Committee application process.

Please visit the FCC site:

flatironsclimbing.org/curre…

to review the application and leave any comments you have and to find instructions on how to join the virtual public vote and meeting on September 1st at 7pm. Aug 13, 2020
Adam bloc
San Golderino, Calirado
[Hide Comment] Wow, this is a great isolated and sunny sport crag for late fall / winter! Sun only from 10-2 around the solstice. Loose talus near the base unsuitable for clumsy dogs or offspring. The hike is a bit extra, spikes are nice for Fern Canyon, but the uphill portion melts off quick. The views at the belay are incredible, high above the Slab with Pike's Peak visible on clear days! Jan 31, 2022
Brian Stevens
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] A bit more info if approaching the southwest face sport climbs: you will turn right off of the Fern Canyon Trail about 50 yards before the left turnoff to The Slab. There will be a faint trail just after a tree that has a "wildlife closure" sign attached to it. Oct 24, 2022
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Sun hit the wall near Big Bruce at around noon on October 2. Oct 2, 2023