Colorado
> Alpine Rock
Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) needs little introduction as one of the most beautiful national parks in the U.S. Consequentially it has some of the most beautiful climbing in the U.S. The routes here are long, (grade III to V), committing, usually have some sections of loose rock, require a lengthy hike in, require some knowledge of snow travel, and are absolutely spectacular. In short, you need to be a competent climber to safely enjoy this area.
Climbing in the park is a complex endeavor that requires being able to analyze many different objective hazards, all while sucking air at 12-14000 feet. These hazards include loose rock, bad weather, bad pro, etc. all of which are magnified in this alpine setting. A first-time climber in the park should feel competent at leading trad at the very least a grade harder; probably two or three than the climb they wish to tackle. One should have a good deal experience on multi-pitch climbs, and one should feel in shape enough to hike five miles uphill in the dark and then climb a thousand-foot face.
All this said, the climbs are magnificent and unforgettable. Some good introductory routes would include the
North Ridge of Spearhead (5.6), the
Northeast Ridge on Sharkstooth (5.6), or even the
East Gully on Sharkstooth (5.4 and NOT a chosspile, a really good climb). A step up from these routes would include the
South Face of the Petit Grepon (5.8, with a time-consuming descent), the magnificent
Culp-Bossier on Hallett (5.8+, runout 5.7). Climbing in the park really starts to open up in the 5.9 and 5.10 range. In the 5.9 range,
Syke's Sickle (9+++, (7s)), the steep
Hesse-Ferguson on Hallett (5.9 with low dihedral variation is in my opinion the best route on Hallett), and the
Direct South Ridge of Notchtop (9) all offer spectacular and incomparable climbing.
In the 5.10 range you can't beat the
Casual Route on Long's (10a), but there are other stellar 10s in the park. Chasm View Wall offers some spicy routes, and Spearhead has a couple classic 10s (
The Barb and
Age Axe?) with
The Barb having a reputation as an "easy" 10.
The Yellow Wall on the Diamond is 10c if done with the
Forrest Finish variation, and is possibly the most spectacular route I have ever done.
Pervertical Sanctuary (10+) is also apparently totally classic.
I have yet to venture into 5.11 and 5.12 range in the park, but two routes come to mind as totally classic, these are
D7 on the Diamond (11c) and
Birds of Fire on Chiefshead (11a). There are tons of other routes in the park, some suck, others are hidden gems. Exploring the more obscure routes is part of the fun of park climbing.
Take US 36 north to Lyons. From Lyons, follow US Highway 36 to Estes Park. From Estes Park, take CO Highway 7 south to get to the Long's Peak trailhead or Wild Basin, or head directly into the park [US 36 and then left on the Bear Lake Rd.] to get to the Glacier Gorge area and the Bear Lake area.
FWIW, if you are trying to enter during entrance fee collecting times, you can use the right lane at the Beaver Meadows entrance with the card activated gate bypassing the lines with a Rocky Mountain National Park annual pass OR a National Parks annual pass purchase at RMNP!
The RMNP annual pass used to be as little as $35. As of 2019, it is now $70!
Colorado Springs, CO
Saudia Aurora, CO
A two-year road reconstruction project on the Bear Lake Road will begin in the spring of 2003. Beginning on May 1, 2003, the road from Sprague Lake to Bear Lake will be accessible by shuttle bus only. Buses will begin running May 1st and will operate through October 31st. The shuttle bus route for this section of Bear Lake Road will run daily every 30 minutes from 5:00am to 10:00pm. The construction will recommence May 1, 2004, and will conclude, weather permitting, October 31, 2004. Again, during this time the road beyond Sprague Lake will be shuttle access only.
Winter travel from November 1, 2003, through april 30, 2004, will be allowed for private vehicles to Bear Lake. The road surface will be gravel. The Sprague Lake road will be closed during the winter of 2003 - 2004 for bridge construction.
For questions, call the park information office at 970-586-1206. Apr 18, 2003
nps.gov/romo/visit/weather/… Apr 21, 2003
Grand Junction, CO
=bye Apr 28, 2003
The rangers are concerned about people that miss the last bus, but will not have any other transportation after 10pm - you'll be hiking if you miss that last bus. It's ~4mi. back to the parking lot at Sprague Lk.
There's tons of snow in the Park right now; NW face of Cheifshead had ice/snow plastering the top 1/3 on Sunday. Snow coverage on the peaks is impressive. Potential for lots of ice if we get the right freeze/thaw going.
May 13, 2003
I see the Gillet guides is "fresher" 2001 vs. 1996, but has it been updated?
Thanks Jun 23, 2003
Estes Park
Lyons, CO
As far as High Peaks vs. Crag Areas, it depends on what areas you're more interested in. Jun 24, 2003
Boulder, CO
The first RMNP guide I bought was by Richard DuMais. This was a very minimalist guide with no topos at all. So rejoice in the guidebook glut, either of the latest versions is a lot better than that. Jun 24, 2003
Lone Tree, CO
Thanks,
Dana Ernst Jul 25, 2003
Not fascinating information, but possibly useful. Jul 28, 2003
Boulder, CO
Thanks. Mar 25, 2004
Boulder
mms.nps.gov/romo/netcam.jpg Jul 29, 2007
All Locations > Colorado > RMNP? Sep 19, 2007
Boulder
denver, colorado
Golden, CO
Golden, CO
Bozeman, MT
Rocky Mountain National Park, Estes Park, Colorado.
The Front Range Section of the American Alpine Club will be hosting a trail improvement day at Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park, Colorado. This project is in conjunction with the Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag program. A full day is scheduled on Sunday, October 18th. Interested persons should register early by emailing event organizer Greg Sievers at g_sievers57@q.com, or calling 970-586-4075. Only those registered will receive a free lunch at the work site and T-shirt.
The group will meet at 7:30am at the Estes Park Town Hall parking lot on MacGregor Ave (downtown next to the Police Dept. and behind the library) where coffee and donuts will be provided. National park staff will supply tools and transportation to the trailhead. Volunteers should bring gloves, plenty of water, dress appropriately and are encouraged to stay for the full day (but part day help is very welcome). All volunteers in attendance at 4pm will be eligible for gifts and raffle items that are sure to please and thrill.
A good turnout will prove that climbers are good stewards of the land and considerate users but also proactive about our interaction with one of this countries largest land management agencies. This years goals include work on the badly eroded Sundance Buttress approach trail.
In 2005 this event won the Access Funds Adopt-a-Crag of the year award. Be part of this energetic proactive event and the beauty of splitter Lumpy granite. Sep 22, 2009
Colorado megalopolis
Sounds like you may be looking for long adventure routes...consider the Black Canyon, which is usually about perfect in late May. Possibly a tad warm, but much less so than Zion. Dec 21, 2011
Bozeman, MT
BEAR LAKE ROAD reconstruction & road closures
nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/… Apr 16, 2012
Westminster, Colorado
I live in Estes Park and was thinking about my weekend plans and had forgotten about the road closures up here on Saturday for the pro bicycling race. I glanced at a few links and maps, and on the NPS RMNP page it mentioned that Lumpy Ridge and RMNP access will be shut down most of the day. Climbers will probably want to know this. in looking at the map, I think that access to the Monastery will probably be closed or limited as well. Basically, all kinds of stuff around the Estes Valley seems like it'll be a mess on Saturday.
I tuned out after looking at it a little bit, and figure I'll just stay home and work Saturday anyway -- I'm buried in deadlines. So, I don't know a lot about it, but your site's viewers might find it useful.
Figured I'd email you and let you know, in case you wanted to announce it under "climbing news" or something. Or would the forum be a better place for it? I'm swamped right now and thus kinda didn't want to hassle with posting in the forums, and then dealing with questions (and accusations and insults, ha! can't imagine it, though it is a web forum, and it seems it takes about one page before the name calling begins :) ) or anything that follows -- I don't know anything more than what I quickly perused online, just figured that people would want to know about it.
If it's best for me to just post it in the forum, though, I can do that. I'll just copy-paste this.
Thoughts?
Here's some links:
stanleyhotel.com/us-pro-cyc…
nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
colorado.gov/cs/Satellite?b…
cheers,
Kelly Aug 23, 2013
Grand Junction, CO