Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo
Climbing Area Map
This is our best guess at this area's location.
Fix Location

Routes in Biglandia

Description

Though spitting distance from the Dakota blocks at Carter Lake, Biglandia offers a different sort of rock and is more of a traverser's paradise. The rock is rough, dark brown and pocketed but faces east, making Biglandia a good tick on days when the wind is blasting the boulders at Carter or you need a bit of afternoon shade.

I have heard multiple reports of rattlesnake sightings during the warmer months, so tread with care.

The traverses here range from long (the Bitch Slap at 90+ feet) to short (the Rotund at 30 feet), yet there are some great up problems as well, some quite highball. Most of the development took place in the mid-90's, the work of Kurt Fry, Mike Freischlag, Skyler Crane, Mike Pont and Pete Zoller, though the area is mentioned as "Carter Meadows" in an old Bob Horan guidebook.

The Bitch Slap, the wall furthest south, is a great place to start, offering myriad variations and a nice flat hang. Almost all the landings at Biglandia are textbook flat meadow, so if Carter highballs have left you a bit drained, Biglandia is a nice change.

Problems range in difficulty from V0-V10, with the two hardest problems (the Mudweiser and Charley Horse) being the work of Charley Bentley. Holds can be sharp, so bring some tape. Expect to pull on micro-pockets, incut crimps and the occasional glassy sloper, as well as funky crack holds.

Getting There

Biglandia is best accessed via Carter Lake. Pass Dam One (where you would park for the north side bouldering, i.e. Kahuna Roof) and keep driving north toward Dam Two. Just before Dam Two either park at a small pull-out on the right near a gate or drive a bit further and turn left into Carter Knolls.

Parking at Carter Knolls requires that you pay an entrace fee, as it's part of the Park. Rumor has it, however, that the pull-out on the right is county land and thus not subject to entrance fees. You be the judge.

Go through the gate and follow a dirt road southeast toward a faint hogback. Either wrap around the front (east) side of the hogback and make your way down the valley toward the crags or continue on a dirt road that runs along the back (west) side of the hogback until you hit a climber's trail running over a small pass in the Hogback.

The crags themselves are arrayed along this valley in a north-south arrangement and are on Carter Lake Property until you hit the fence at the Bitch Slap Wall. Don't bother climbing on the next wall south -- it's very much on private land.

9 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Biglandia Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Biglandia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V7 7A+
 3
The Rotund
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Rotund
 3
V7 7A+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Biglandia »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Biglandia is not bad. It's best as a place for after-work bouldering in the early summer due to the shade (easily doable it you live anywhere from Boulder to Fort Collins). Some problems should not be missed - Cream Filled Manboy and Chump are very good steep straight up problems. Phillip Benningfield's Colorado Bouldering guide covers this area quite well. Mar 22, 2002
I checked out Biglandia last week. It is a nice area when its windy or hot as the routes face east and are steep. Most problems are steep and harder than what can be found along much of the ridge above the lake. Also, most problems that go up have loose top outs. You might be best off climbing down a few holds a heading for your pad. This would be bad advice for the highballs however. It didn't appear to see a lot of traffic based on trails. Have fun! Apr 4, 2002
A common problem with this web site is poor location descriptions. As an example, I'm not familiar w/ CO enough to know where Carter Lake is. So the above description gives me no idea where this area is. Obviously I could do a Mapquest-type search, but having to do that makes this website look sloppy. Please, be more thourough in descritions. Apr 24, 2002
Yeah, the description here is not detailed enough. Check out Carter Lake on this website and the directions should be adequate. May 14, 2002
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
The pullout on the right is subject to ticketing if you don't have a pass. I got one on 1/1/03, $20. I also had my car broken into, so hide your valuables. Jan 1, 2003
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
It's been years since I visited this place, but I believe that the older approach has been closed due to residential development. I might be wrong. The least complicated approach is to park where the main road to Carter lake meet the lake itself. Sort of a bridge. From there, you walk east through the field, following what I seem to recall as being a barbed wire fence. This path eventually ends at the Biglandia boulders. I enjoyed this area. It has short, powerful problems and long traverses. The Rotund (V7) is one of my favorites.

Watch out for rattlesnakes in the tall grass. Jul 13, 2005

More About Biglandia

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (10)

All Photos Within Biglandia (8)

Most Popular · Newest · Random