Lumpy Ridge
Colorado
> Estes Park Valley
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per
Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas (
nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate.
Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023. Per
Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per
A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock -
nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/… Sundance -
nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/… The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-
nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/… Thunder Buttress and The Parish -
nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/… Twin Owls and Rock One -
nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/… Cathedral Wall -
nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/… When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
I hesitate to write about Lumpy, I grew up spending my summers in Estes Park and started my climbing career 7 years ago at Lumpy. Since then, I have seen it grow immensely in popularity and is headed the way of Eldo (
i.e. crowded as hell); however, this growth is mainly from the weekend warriors, on the weekday climbing is more reasonable.
Lumpy is awesome, the climbs are moderately long, two to five pitches on average, and take place in a spectacular setting with views of Longs and RMNP. The climbs are spread out on a number of unique formations, the most popular being The Book. Sundance, far at the end of the ridge, is the tallest cliff at 700-800' and has awesome classic climbing with a long approach that deters the lazier climbers.
The climbing at Lumpy is interesting. I have always felt it to be quite stiff. Pushing the grades here in the 5.10 and 5.11 range often requires fiddling with tricky pro on less than vertical flared cracks while fighting a heinous calf pump. The pitches tend to be full length and take place on highly technical granite that requires solid footwork. There aren't too many beginner climbs here, Lumpy climbing is concentrated in the 5.9-5.11 range. That said there are a few classic outings in the 5.5-5.8 range. These include:
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe (5.7, this is a good, although not classic climb),
Batman and Robin (5.6, great beginner climb or first lead),
White Whale and
Hiatus (5.7, totally classic),
Kor's Flake (5.8, longer route),
Osiris (5.8, you will either love or hate this "wider" climb),
Melvin's Wheel (.8+, great climb),
Pear Buttress (.8+, best 5.8 on the Ridge),
Cackle Crack (5.8, short).
Climbing in the 5.9-5.10 range opens up tons of classics, these are a very few.
J-Crack (.9, spicy with a runout 5.8 traverse, time tested classic),
Loose Ends (.9 awesome),
George's Tree (.9, very typical Lumpy climbing),
Mainliner (.9-, DO THIS CLIMB),
Orange Julius (.10a, varied climbing),
Climb of the Ancient Mariner (.10a classic face),
Fat City (.10+ famous classic, a sandbag),
Cheap Date (.10a) and
Outlander (.10+), great finish to routes like
Pear Buttress and
J-Crack ),
Gollum's Arch (.10a, sandbagged and sustained with many different sizes on it). In the 5.11 range, almost every route is good, yet many are tricky to protect as they are thin seams and faint features.
Stretch Marks (.11a, a little scary),
Living Dead (.11b, very finicky protection),
Backbone Arete (.11c, a well bolted yet very hard slab),
Finger Lickin' Good (.11a),
Corner Pump Station (.11c). I haven't done these two, yet they, obviously belong on this list.
For those with minimal time to spare, Little Twin Owls has good toproping with a classic
Finger Crack (.11) that should not be missed. There is good bouldering just before Little Twin Owls, and just after the turnoff for The Book. Two good routes for the solid .10 trad leader are on Checkerboard Rock, a fifteen minute approach. These climbs are
Ziggy's Day Out (.10+) and
Checkerboard Crack (.10b), both these routes are short and require a lot of skill at placing pro.
Checkerboard Crack is classic Lumpy climbing, flared, insecure, sustained, and very hard to protect.
Getting There
Take US 36 to Estes Park. At the intersection of US 36 and US 34 in Estes Park, turn North onto E Wonderview. Pass the Stanley Hotel on the right, then turn right onto MacGregor Ave., which becomes Devil's Gulch Rd. at a sharp bend right. 1/2 mile later, turn left onto Lumpy Ridge Rd. (there's a good sign for this), and park in the lot at the end.
The new trailhead will be located east of the Twin Owls Trailhead just off MacGregor Ave. The gravel access road lies just west of the Gem Lake Trailhead. This will result in an additional 0.7 miles to formations west of Twin Owls. This will shorten access to crags east of Twin Owls. Happy hiking.
Trail Realignment
There appears to be a line of cord uphill/north of the old Black Canyon Trail. It is likely the new trail location as part of the changes to be made with the land deal swap/reversal of easements (which includes the new parking lot to the east). Now, the fences have moved (as of 2009).
New Trailhead
There is a new, 100-car, paved trailhead for Lumpy Ridge. The old Twin Owls trailhead is in the process of being reverted closer to its former state. The new trailhead adds on 0.6 miles to routes from Twin Owls and west (Batman, Book, Pear, Sundance, etc.) Note, for those new to the area, the trail listed as Black Canyon Trail is used to access The Book, The Pear, Sundance etc.) The water source at the old Twin Owls lots is still on as of 7/07.
Obscure bit
This was called Thataa-ai-atah by Arapaho Indians which means "little lumps".
Dogs
No dogs allowed off the pavement. It is a National Park.
Bats - conservation
See a bat on a route, give a shout. Climbers for Bat Conservation is working with climbers to understand bat ecology and why bats choose certain cracks and flakes. If you see bats, and want to tell them, here is their email (climbersforbats@colostate.edu) and their website ( climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).
Climbers for Bat Conservation is a collaboration between climbers, bat biologists, and land managers to understand where bats roost and where large populations may reside. They are interested in finding bats because a new disease, called white-nose syndrome ( whitenosesyndrome.org/), has killed millions of bats in North America. This collaboration has identified bat roosts throughout the U.S., and as far away as Norway and Bulgaria. CBC was developed by biologists who climb and they are advocates for climbing access and bat conservation. If you see bats while climbing, please let them know by emailing them at climbersforbats@colostate.edu, or visiting their website to learn more ( climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).
Rob Schorr
Zoologist, Colorado Natural Heritage Program ( sites.warnercnr.colostate.e…)
Director, Climbers for Bat Conservation
Robert.schorr@colostate.edu
[Hide Photo] Sundance Buttress and Sundance Needle bathed in a shroud of rare low clouds, Lumpy Ridge, Colorado.
[Hide Photo] Lumpy Ridge.
[Hide Photo] Sunset over Sundance and Batman Rock, 7-28-2007.
[Hide Photo] A gloomy winter day riding around wishing I was climbing - winter 2000/2001
[Hide Photo] Elk and horses-Lumpy Ridge. Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] The Book, Bookend and Bookmark as seen from a climbers support organization trail day.
2) #2 Ed's Cantina. Enough said.
3) If you think it is too crowded...try hitting the full moon in warmer weather. Take a headlamp and enjoy. I have yet to have to wait for anyone.
4) Work at the YMCA before you get a real job. This will allow you to really hit RMNP hard and find all the Cougars you need in a summer. Feb 5, 2002
Denver, CO
Westminster, Colorado
Silicon Valley/Boulder
And, not to downplay the efforts made in rebolting single pitch routes, the ASCA has been responsible for rebolting many multi-pitch routes in areas such as Yosemite and Red Rocks. The amount of effort to drag all that gear up many, many pitches and climb then re-bolt routes is staggering. It makes big wall climbing seem trivial.
Please do not stop contributing to the ASCA because of one bad apple. Greg, Chris, et al. are doing a great service to the climbing community. It is a thankless job that is in need of your support to keep it happening (www.safeclimbing.org).
Bruce Apr 23, 2004
First of all Eli is out of town and probably would like to be part of this discussion. I will leave that up to him and to respond to the bolt issue on the parking lot rock.
As far as the route King Tut goes- I drilled the one protection bolt that is on the slab 1/2 between Ramses and Cat Dancing. The route is a little bit of a sqeeze but is a great route and to climb it directly without the bolt would put the leader into ledge fall territory. I tried to lead it group up but backed off. WE cleaned much rock off of the overlaps, much of it being very loose and poorly protectable. There are some other overlaps to the right but still to the left of Ramses that Jason may have climbed or he may have climbed the same route. The fact that we claimed a new route may have been premature and if you have climbed this entire route prior to 3/04 let this site know and you can name it., grade it etc... chop the bolt if you think it is unessecary. Just trying to get cool new routes up! As far as the anchor goes. It is a convenience anchor. I see no problem with that. 99% percent of the bolted anchors at Lumpy are convenience anchors. One could always climb choss to the top and walk off. Or rap off slings around horns that litter the area and are eye sores. (I know bolts are eye sores to some, but generally they are considered lower visual impact) If you want to jump on a band wagon, jump on one that is going to allow the park to build and brand new trail only 300 feet above the exisiting one.
peace to all,
dale Apr 26, 2004
Estes Park, CO
Knoxville, TN
Boulder, CO
In my ignorance, I brought my dog to Lumpy and on the way out received a 20 minute lecture and a $100 ticket. Jun 15, 2011
Bozeman, MT
Westminster, Colorado
I live in Estes Park and was thinking about my weekend plans and had forgotten about the road closures up here on Saturday for the pro bicycling race. I glanced at a few links and maps, and on the NPS RMNP page it mentioned that Lumpy Ridge and RMNP access will be shut down most of the day. Climbers will probably want to know this. in looking at the map, I think that access to the Monastery will probably be closed or limited as well. Basically, all kinds of stuff around the Estes Valley seems like it'll be a mess on Saturday.
I tuned out after looking at it a little bit, and figure I'll just stay home and work Saturday anyway -- I'm buried in deadlines. So, I don't know a lot about it, but your site's viewers might find it useful.
Figured I'd email you and let you know, in case you wanted to announce it under "climbing news" or something. Or would the forum be a better place for it? I'm swamped right now and thus kinda didn't want to hassle with posting in the forums, and then dealing with questions (and accusations and insults, ha! can't imagine it, though it is a web forum, and it seems it takes about one page before the name calling begins :) ) or anything that follows -- I don't know anything more than what I quickly perused online, just figured that people would want to know about it.
If it's best for me to just post it in the forum, though, I can do that. I'll just copy-paste this.
Thoughts?
Here's some links:
stanleyhotel.com/us-pro-cyc…
nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
colorado.gov/cs/Satellite?b…
cheers,
Kelly Aug 23, 2013
Bozeman, MT
The Colo. Mtn School is sponsoring the Rocky Mountain Rondezvous again. For details:
facebook.com/events/1468199…
Sundance was the first trail we set our sights on, but 15 years of erosion have taken their toll. Please consider joining the efforts.
eventbrite.com/e/rocky-moun… Jul 30, 2015
Colorado
I walked by it during winter, and it was still a fountain but not on, which is expected in winter, but today I walked by and the hardware was no longer there and it was cemented over. Sadness.
Billings, MT
Fort Collins, CO
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock Jun 4, 2022
- Twin Owls.
- Rock One.
- Sheep Mountain and Cathedral Wall also remain closed. Jun 24, 2023