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Areas in Castle Rock

Beef Butte 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Castle Rock - East Face 4 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Castle Rock - North Spur 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Castle Rock - South Face 9 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Crack House, The 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Cryin Shame Boulder 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Egg Wall 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Hostess Gully - West Corridor 9 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Johnny Cash 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Kid Rock 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Liberator of Baghdad Rock 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Poultry Pillar - Wedding Wall 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Poultry Pillar - West 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Saddle Horn 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sawtooth, The 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Tiny Town 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Warrior Rock 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
West Buttress - South 4 / 9 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
West Side - Excalibur Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 6,330 ft
GPS: 42.124, -113.671 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,445 total · 569/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Dec 20, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle
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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This is the largest rock formation in the park at about 300 ft tall. There are a number of good multi-pitch climbs on the rock. This is the first area to be developed at Castle Rocks, and there are about 100 routes on and around this main formation. The majority of the routes are in the 5.7-5.10 range due to the low angle nature of the rock.

The Castle Rocks Sector is not the largest area, however it is the most concentrated. Home to over 125 routes and growing, this sector is the closest and most obvious. Sport routes, trad routes, and multi-pitch routes as long as 300 feet long will be found, as are most of the classics climbs.

A majority of the lines here are sport, while others are mixed. There are a number of pure cracks of great quality, but don't expect to come here for those specifically.

Nearly all routes I can remember have chain anchors. Most routes can be rappelled with one rope, but like the City of Rocks, its best to carry a 70 meter rope, although it is not mandatory.

Approach time is about 5-10 minutes up a well-traveled trail/double track.

Getting There

This formation is obivous from the parking lot and is about a third of a mile west of the parking lot. There are number of well marked trails to access the different areas, so please stay on the trails and buy a guidebook from one of the local shops in Almo. There are currently 2-3 different guidebooks for the area.

117 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 57
Little Time
Sport 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 63
Poking Holes in the Firmament
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 165
Big Time
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 65
Fruit Pie
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 98
Zinger
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 38
It Takes Two
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 46
Castle Keep
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
To Have and to Hold
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Between Heaven and Earth
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 90
Red Rib
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 63
Shock and Awe
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 61
Jug-A-Lug
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Crimson Arete
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 59
Twinkie
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 50
Honeymoon in Almo
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Little Time Castle Rock - S Face
 57
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 2 pitches
Poking Holes in the Firmament W Buttress - South
 63
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Big Time Castle Rock - S Face
 165
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 4 pitches
Fruit Pie Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 65
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Zinger Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 98
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
It Takes Two Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 38
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Castle Keep Castle Rock - S Face
 46
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
To Have and to Hold Poultry Pillar - Wedd…
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Between Heaven and Earth Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Red Rib Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 90
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shock and Awe W Buttress - South
 63
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jug-A-Lug Crack House
 61
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Crimson Arete Castle Rock - E Face
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Twinkie Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 59
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Honeymoon in Almo Hostess Gully - W Cor…
 50
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock »

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Dreez  
I have never been here and have no book...and its hard to get lost.

You can now drive up trailhead 3 minutes from the rock. AND they have installed signs to all the classic climbs on the trail. If you get lost you must of not gotten out of 1st grade.

This is fantastic. Just like climbing in Europe or Muir Valley Red River Gorge. Jul 23, 2014

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