Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Altered States Gully

Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Mostly west-facing, this gully has some fine slab routes, some great rock, some bad rock, and some moderate cracks. Not a location for the faint of heart as the approach borders on comical, and none of the easier routes are well-protected. Romance on the Rocks, Altered States, A Bright Shining Lie, are just some of the fine lines.

P.S.Good slabbers come here as the rock needs a bit of cleaning, but otherwise some great lines.

Getting There

Caveat: My approach information may not be the best. About 50 feet up canyon form the archives road is a weak gully. Work your way up this gully, bushwhacking and trail-finding the entire way. Work your way further west through clearings until the main gully is attained. Climb up this gully.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
The Slash
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Sticky Fingers
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 6
Air Express
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
Stumpy
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 2
Betty's In 3D
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 83
Betty's Altered Elbow
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Above and Beyond
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 40
Altered States
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
Romance on the Rocks
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
A Bright Shining Lie
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 2
Del Tongo
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Latter Day Sinner
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
The Rhino's Chin
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 6
Magic Circus
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
March of the Gummi Bears
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
March of the Gumby Bears
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 3
Proscenium
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 2
Sleight of Hand
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 1
Dropping Out
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 4
Discrete Feat
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
Eagle Roof
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 3
Thoroughflare
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 3
Clutching at Straws
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 6
Slip Slidin'
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 4
Angel's Ladder
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Slash
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Sticky Fingers
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Air Express
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad
Stumpy
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Betty's In 3D
 2
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 4 pitches
Betty's Altered Elbow
 83
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Above and Beyond
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Altered States
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Romance on the Rocks
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
A Bright Shining Lie
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Del Tongo
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Latter Day Sinner
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Rhino's Chin
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Magic Circus
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
March of the Gummi Bears
 1
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
March of the Gumby Bears
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Proscenium
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
Sleight of Hand
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Dropping Out
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Discrete Feat
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Eagle Roof
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Thoroughflare
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
Clutching at Straws
 3
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Slip Slidin'
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Angel's Ladder
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Feels like a long pitch! Checking the latest market indicators via cell phone...buy or sell or hold on?
[Hide Photo] Feels like a long pitch! Checking the latest market indicators via cell phone...buy or sell or hold on?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I'd like to check this place out but I dont like to chase geese. Jul 12, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
[Hide Comment] As of 04/28/06, there was a cairn marked trail that was not too hard to follow to Altered States and The Fin. It starts just east of the archives road. Apr 29, 2006
Xover
C-Dub Hts, UT
[Hide Comment] No cairn anymore; just head up boulder strewn gully as opposed to bushwhacking. Aug 26, 2006
[Hide Comment] The trail is a lot easier to follow this year. Start per Nathan's description, but when you get a little past the large boulder start looking to the right for a nice trail with switchbacks through the trees and dumps you out at the bottom of the lower butress and then back into the gully

I was just looking at the route list for this area and most everything has an "R" by it. Most of the routes don't feel that bad though. Apr 22, 2007
Will Roth
Saranac Lake, NY
[Hide Comment] The approach is very easy and pretty fast. Start up the trail about 50ft East (up canyon) of the Archive Road. Keep going on this trail straight uphill. Eventually this trail comes to the base of the cliffs. Head West (left) and the trail dumps you into the gully just below the routes. Really cool area to explore! Great slab routes!!!! May 29, 2010