PRINT: Rock Climbing in Wheeler-Newsome Wall, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Wheeler-Newsome Wall

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

AKA: The Hong Wall, This wall is home to a collection of great routes. All follow crack systems which lean right and all kick back to various degrees (i.e, hard). The rock is nice and abrasive with a little flakiness on the sides.

The wall gets morning sun and then shade later in the day.

Tick Fever is the most popular route, but Wing Nut and Strewn Masters of Gore (look like they) are worth doing.

Getting There

This wall is located between the Crescent/Coffin Buttress and the Egg Buttress. It is on the lower back side of The Keel. It can be approached from either The Egg or The Coffin side. About 2/3rds way up to the base of The Coffin cut east and around the base into a loose wash. Scramble up to base of climbs, or even better cut to The Hong Wall from The Egg trail split left just before you begin scrambling up to The Egg.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 167 ● Tick Fever Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 35 ● Wing Nut Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 16 ● Strewn Masters of Gore Trad, Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 2 ● Godsmack Trad

● Tick Fever

167

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad

● Wing Nut

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad

● Strewn Masters of Gore

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport

● Godsmack

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

East face of the Wheeler-Newsome Wall (aka Hong Wall).<br>
1 - Tick Fever (5.11a)<br>
2 - Wing Nut (5.11c)

East face of the Wheeler-Newsome Wall (aka Hong Wall). 1 - Tick Fever (5.11a) 2 - Wing Nut (5.11c)

Hong Wall