You wake up one morning, say this morning. It is going to be a fine, warm, Saturday in October as approaching storms threaten a major change. You want to climb somewhere away from the crowds that you feel may swarm the canyons today. Come to the Black Peeler. From the top of my routes, I could see no less than 30 cars parked at the Gate. However, there were just my party and one other on the entire Peeler Buttress.
The definitive ?Ruckman guide? divides the Peeler Buttress into a South Face and the southeast-facing ?Peeler Face?. This division is used here for convenience and familiarity.
A newer legal approach heads directly up the hill side below the Peeler South Face.
Begin at a roadside trail 0.25 miles past the Gate parking. A skinny, flat topped, triangular boulder marks the start 75ft down canyon from the wedged Stick Boulder (The Hill bouldering). Follow the dirt trail staying just left of the large boulder field. The trail heads almost straight up the hill besides a slight jog down canyon near a large fin shaped boulder. After the jog, follow the trail up a pleasant rocky drainage to the start of the cliff. From here, fork left for the Lower and South faces, or right for the main Peeler face.
On the road to perdition
Salt Lake City, UT
Utah