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Bongeater Buttress

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the buttress above the parking lot with the obvious dihedral. The dihedral is the infamous Bongeater and is an easy toprope to set up by scrambling up and right of the buttress. You might find a mountain goat guarding the chains.

Getting There

The trail begins at the northeast corner of the parking lot.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 17
Desperado
Trad 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Life on your feet
Trad, Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
Prowser
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 372
Bongeater
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 49
Handeater
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Life by the Throat
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Desperado
 17
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Life on your feet
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport
Prowser
 21
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Bongeater
 372
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Handeater
 49
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Life by the Throat
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bongeater Buttress seen from the Little Cottonwood Canyon Park & Ride.
[Hide Photo] Bongeater Buttress seen from the Little Cottonwood Canyon Park & Ride.
Alpenbock Loop Trail Network
[Hide Photo] Alpenbock Loop Trail Network
Climbers on Prowser and Burner on a cool November evening
[Hide Photo] Climbers on Prowser and Burner on a cool November evening
On the approach
[Hide Photo] On the approach

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sean A Smith
South Salt Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] The approach is really straight forward, but there have been some trail changes so I thought an update would be appropriate.
-Take the trail at the northeast side of the parking lot.
-When you come to a "T" go left.
-Walk about 50 feet till you come to the first trail on the right. Follow this up to Bongeater. Oct 25, 2015
M L
Sonora, CA
[Hide Comment] the trail up to the climb is now "closed" and in its place, an absurdly long loop around which goes down canyon before switch-backing up that IMO did way more damage to the environment than the old trail ever would have. You can ride your bike there now at least. Apr 17, 2017
Kevin Lockwood
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] New trail is great. If you don't like the new way, it's faster to walk past Crescent Crack and use the new trail to traverse over to the Bong Eater. Thanks SLCA! Apr 23, 2017