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Bongeater Buttress
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwood Canyon
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
This is the buttress above the parking lot with the obvious dihedral. The dihedral is the infamous Bongeater and is an easy toprope to set up by scrambling up and right of the buttress. You might find a mountain goat guarding the chains.
Getting There
The trail begins at the northeast corner of the parking lot.
[Hide Comment] The approach is really straight forward, but there have been some trail changes so I thought an update would be appropriate. -Take the trail at the northeast side of the parking lot. -When you come to a "T" go left. -Walk about 50 feet till you come to the first trail on the right. Follow this up to Bongeater.
Oct 25, 2015
[Hide Comment] the trail up to the climb is now "closed" and in its place, an absurdly long loop around which goes down canyon before switch-backing up that IMO did way more damage to the environment than the old trail ever would have. You can ride your bike there now at least.
Apr 17, 2017
[Hide Comment] New trail is great. If you don't like the new way, it's faster to walk past Crescent Crack and use the new trail to traverse over to the Bong Eater. Thanks SLCA!
Apr 23, 2017
South Salt Lake, UT
-Take the trail at the northeast side of the parking lot.
-When you come to a "T" go left.
-Walk about 50 feet till you come to the first trail on the right. Follow this up to Bongeater. Oct 25, 2015
Sonora, CA
SLC, UT