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Ferguson Canyon
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
Description
This small canyon is just to the south of Big Cottonwood Canyon and is a great place to beat the summer heat. There are several small crags on north-facing walls under a canopy of large trees. A small stream runs by and sometimes makes it difficult to get up there without getting your feet wet. The canyon is also a popular place for picnics.
Ice Climbing
The popular summer crag canyon actually has ice! No much of ice, but I was able to front point up about 45' in April. If you hike on the Ferguson trail, passing all the climbing buttresses, you'll see some flows on the south side of the canyon. It's as simple as that, hike till you see ice, if you don't see ice, keep hiking (unless nothing formed that year).
Getting There
Follow directions to the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon. There is a 7-11 store here, at the intersection of Wasatch Blvd (Hwy 210) and Fort Union Blvd (Hwy 190, also 7200 South). From this intersection, head south on Wasatch Blvd for a quarter mile and turn left (east) into the Prospector Drive neighborhoods. Take an immediate right and head south up the hill. Take the second left onto Timberline drive and park alongside the right side of the road near the trailhead sign. A dirt road leads to a white water tower and then turns into a trail that descends into the canyon. Follow various branching trails east into the mouth of the canyon. The trail and almost all climbs are on the south side of the stream. The approach for the first climbs on the Watchtower is 15-20 minutes.
[Hide Photo] Visions of Fergy... It's not surprising this canyon is so popular.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the canyon from atop The Cathedral.
[Hide Photo] Crazy rock and thick trees
[Hide Photo] Visions of Fergy, the hike out. Hopefully you cooled a few PBRs in the stream...
[Hide Photo] This shot was taken near the intersection at the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon looking southeast towards Ferguson Canyon. On the right you can see the water tank you hike by on your way into Ferg…
[Hide Photo] 40 oz? 5.10 something. Ferguson canyon climbing not listed here.
[Hide Photo] Ferguson Canyon - couple of people sitting on that rock out there
[Hide Photo] SLC as green as I ever saw it, spring 2019
[Hide Photo] Newer area not yet on here. Great harder granite climbs in the top of the canyon.
[Hide Photo] A brooding Fergie (7/24/23)
Wasatch Back, UT
The lack of a guidebook update in the last ten years has led to a number of "repeat FA's". If you find a route with fixed gear, it's most likely been freed before (duh). A few routes in this canyon were first done as solos, then got bolted later by others. My point is, do your homework and ask around before claiming a FA, and certainly before you bolt. And DON'T STEAL FIXED PITONS. Get a job dirtbag. Mar 31, 2008
I spent an hour or so the other day picking up little pieces of shattered glass from around the base of the Watchtower, and there is still a lot of glass around. A week or so ago I was up there and I saw a group of young (underage) kids hiking up. There were about ten of them. Each was carrying 4-6 bottles of Corona, no backpacks. When they came back down later, they weren't carrying anything. That means that those 40-60 bottles are still up there somewhere, probably smashed to bits. I should have confronted them about it, and I am still kicking myself for not doing so (but there were 10 of them and 1 of me). Every time I hike up the trail I pick up at least 20 cigarette butts and other odds and ends of trash. My dog comes up there with me, and I always pick up and pack out his poop. Many others do not, as there are always piles of poop all over the place.
I think it would be a good idea as a community of climbers to carry trash bags with us when we use this canyon. Lets pick up the trash of others, and ourselves and clean up this nice canyon. It may help preserve our access as a user group and it will definitely show others that we are a responsible and respectful user group. Aug 22, 2008
Small Lake, UT
I don't know how much of this is true. She may have been ranting or she may have been the mayor of the city for all I know. Nevertheless, a bit of cleaning is certainly not gonna hurt access to the canyon... Do your part peeps! Jun 5, 2009
Salt Lake City, UT
Salt Lake City
More information will be available on the SLCA website as it becomes available.
saltlakeclimbers.org Jul 30, 2009
SLC, UT
"The Timberline Trailhead is a popular attraction in our coummnunity, but street parking around the trail has become a problem for homeowners in the area. For that reason, the roads around the trailhead will be designated permit-only parking as of July 1.
Anyone using the trail must park in designated trailhead parking or at the gravel overflow parking area on Prospector Drive. Homeowners along Timberline Drive, Quicksilver Drive and Prospector Drive will receive five street parking permits per household to place inside family cars or the cars of visiting guests.
Any car parked on those streets without a placard risks being ticketed for a parking violation. As a remoinder, the city will be posting permit-only parking signs and a map of the overflow parking area at the trailhead." Jul 5, 2010
Small Lake, UT
Thank you Sep 2, 2011
Salt Lake City, UT
Utah
Lakewood, CO