Zappa Dome Rock Climbing
Routes in Zappa Dome
|Burnt Weenie Sandwich S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Conceptual Continuity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Excentrifugal Forz S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Friendly Little Finger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Grand Wazoo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|It Might Just Be A One-Shot Deal S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Keep it Greasy S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Latent Appliance Fetish S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mud Shark S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|One Size Fits All S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Playground Psychotics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Plooking & Thrashing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Strictly Commercial S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Token of My Extreme S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Treacherous Cretins S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|We're Only In It For the Money S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Weasels Ripped My Flesh S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|You Are What You Is S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|GPS:||31.953, -109.964 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||15,453 total, 106/month|
|Shared By:||kBobby Hanson on Dec 31, 2005|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionMore sport climbing in the Stronghold. The rock here is more interesting (IMO) than Isle of You, and the bolt spacing is much closer (both vertically, and horizontally). You can decide for yourself if this is a good thing. With the exception of just a few bolts near protectable cracks, most of the bolting is quite good on a solid and unbroken face. This is a predominantly moderate area with most of the routes in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. South facing and warm, with little shade. Beware, in places the rock is still a bit flaky.
I believe that most of these routes were put up by the prolific Scott Ayers.
Getting ThereJust as you enter the Stronghold, you will pass a cattle guard. There is a sign here and a spur road to the right leading up past a couple of campsites (and the trailhead to Entrance Dome) toward Batline Dome and Owl Rock. Take this spur. This road gets pretty rocky toward the top, but I made it up with my Honda Accord, and I've seen other passenger cars up there as well. At the top is a small parking area under Batline Dome, and above a sinkhole/ravine. Obvious across the ravine is Owl Rock (home of Nightstalker, 5.9 **). From the southeast corner of the parking area, you can see Zappa Dome up the drainage (there is a big tree at the base of the wall). The Kerry guide, and the Falcon guide both have directions to Batline in them, but not Zappa Dome.
From the trailhead drop down into the ravine toward Owl Rock. As you get to the bottom of the stream bed, look for a faint opening to the left (continuing straight will take you to Owl Rock). Go up the stream bed under a gray buttress on the left (with a couple of bolts) and then back into the stream bed. Continue until a well-cairned trail climbs out of the drainage, up through the slabs and talus to the base of the wall.
Approach time: ~20 min.
Classic Climbing Routes at Zappa Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season