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Routes in Zappa Dome

Burnt Weenie Sandwich S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conceptual Continuity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Excentrifugal Forz S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friendly Little Finger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grand Wazoo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Might Just Be A One-Shot Deal S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Keep it Greasy S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Latent Appliance Fetish S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mud Shark S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Size Fits All S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Playground Psychotics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plooking & Thrashing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Strictly Commercial S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Token of My Extreme S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Treacherous Cretins S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
We're Only In It For the Money S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weasels Ripped My Flesh S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
You Are What You Is S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Elevation: 5,332 ft
GPS: 31.953, -109.964 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,424 total · 112/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
Getting weather forecast...

Description

More sport climbing in the Stronghold. The rock here is more interesting (IMO) than Isle of You, and the bolt spacing is much closer (both vertically, and horizontally). You can decide for yourself if this is a good thing. With the exception of just a few bolts near protectable cracks, most of the bolting is quite good on a solid and unbroken face. This is a predominantly moderate area with most of the routes in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. South facing and warm, with little shade. Beware, in places the rock is still a bit flaky.

I believe that most of these routes were put up by the prolific Scott Ayers.

Getting There

Just as you enter the Stronghold, you will pass a cattle guard. There is a sign here and a spur road to the right leading up past a couple of campsites (and the trailhead to Entrance Dome) toward Batline Dome and Owl Rock. Take this spur. This road gets pretty rocky toward the top, but I made it up with my Honda Accord, and I've seen other passenger cars up there as well. At the top is a small parking area under Batline Dome, and above a sinkhole/ravine. Obvious across the ravine is Owl Rock (home of Nightstalker, 5.9 **). From the southeast corner of the parking area, you can see Zappa Dome up the drainage (there is a big tree at the base of the wall). The Kerry guide, and the Falcon guide both have directions to Batline in them, but not Zappa Dome.

From the trailhead drop down into the ravine toward Owl Rock. As you get to the bottom of the stream bed, look for a faint opening to the left (continuing straight will take you to Owl Rock). Go up the stream bed under a gray buttress on the left (with a couple of bolts) and then back into the stream bed. Continue until a well-cairned trail climbs out of the drainage, up through the slabs and talus to the base of the wall.

Approach time: ~20 min.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Zappa Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 36
Strictly Commercial
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Mud Shark
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 17
It Might Just Be A One-Shot Deal
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Excentrifugal Forz
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Friendly Little Finger
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 20
One Size Fits All
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Grand Wazoo
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Conceptual Continuity
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Keep it Greasy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
We're Only In It For the Money
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Playground Psychotics
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Latent Appliance Fetish
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Burnt Weenie Sandwich
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Strictly Commercial
 36
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Mud Shark
 29
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
It Might Just Be A One-Shot…
 17
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Excentrifugal Forz
 28
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Friendly Little Finger
 8
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
One Size Fits All
 20
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Grand Wazoo
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Conceptual Continuity
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Keep it Greasy
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
We're Only In It For the Money
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Playground Psychotics
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Latent Appliance Fetish
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Burnt Weenie Sandwich
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Zappa Dome »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Warm and sunny. Take a 60M or 70M rope. A good concentration of moderate climbs makes this a great place to go with a less-than-hardman partner and have a good time. Jan 1, 2008
I would second Tony's comments on the area. A 60m rope is fine. Although there is shade for the belayer, it can be hot here by later March. The left side of the wall goes into the shade by about 3pm. Mar 31, 2008
Braxtron
...
Braxtron   ...
If anybody wants a topo, just email me and I'll send you a pdf. Apr 10, 2008
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
At some point, I'll put together a topo for this area. There are several other areas I'll be working on before this one, so in the mean time, here's a list of the routes. They are in order from left to right.

Hope this helps you all enjoy this fun area.


1. Plooking and Thrashing 5.10a (avoiding the direct start) or 5.10c (direct start)
2. Keep It Greasy 5.9+
3. Friendly Little Finger 5.8+
4. It Just MIght Be a One-Shot Deal 5.7
5. Conceptual Continuity 5.9
6. Treacherous Cretins 5.9-
7. The Mud Shark 5.7
8. The Grand Wazoo 5.9
9. Burnt Weenie Sandwich 5.10b/c
10. Weasels Ripped My Flesh 5.11b
11. Latent Appliance Fetishist 5.10b
12. Playground Psychotics 5.10a
13. You Are What You Is 5.10a
14. We're Only In It For The Money 5.10a
15. Strictly Commercial 5.7
16. Excentrifugal Forz 5.8+
17. Token Of My Extreme 5.4
18. One Size Fits All 5.8 to 5.9+ (height dependent crux) Aug 13, 2008
This dome is not worthy of the Zappa name. The climbs on this dome are broken ledgy and short. Seriusly there are way beter options at the stronghold. Dec 14, 2010
Greg Goodrum
Tucson, AZ
Greg Goodrum   Tucson, AZ
This wall has some stout grades, but is excellently bolted and the climbing is some of the best cragging at Cochise. Mar 1, 2015

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