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Elevation: 5,332 ft
GPS: 31.95347, -109.96365
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,413 total · 169/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

More sport climbing in the Stronghold. The rock here is more interesting (IMO) than Isle of You, and the bolt spacing is much closer (both vertically, and horizontally). You can decide for yourself if this is a good thing. With the exception of just a few bolts near protectable cracks, most of the bolting is quite good on a solid and unbroken face. This is a predominantly moderate area with most of the routes in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. South facing and warm, with little shade. Beware, in places the rock is still a bit flaky.

I believe that most of these routes were put up by the prolific Scott Ayers.

Getting There Suggest change

Just as you enter the Stronghold, you will pass a cattle guard. There is a sign here and a spur road to the right leading up past a couple of campsites (and the trailhead to Entrance Dome) toward Batline Dome and Owl Rock. Take this spur. This road gets pretty rocky toward the top, but I made it up with my Honda Accord, and I've seen other passenger cars up there as well. At the top is a small parking area under Batline Dome, and above a sinkhole/ravine. Obvious across the ravine is Owl Rock (home of Nightstalker, 5.9 **). From the southeast corner of the parking area, you can see Zappa Dome up the drainage (there is a big tree at the base of the wall). The Kerry guide, and the Falcon guide both have directions to Batline in them, but not Zappa Dome.

From the trailhead drop down into the ravine toward Owl Rock. As you get to the bottom of the stream bed, look for a faint opening to the left (continuing straight will take you to Owl Rock). Go up the stream bed under a gray buttress on the left (with a couple of bolts) and then back into the stream bed. Continue until a well-cairned trail climbs out of the drainage, up through the slabs and talus to the base of the wall.

Approach time: ~20 min.

18 Total Climbs

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Location: Zappa Dome Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Zappa Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 54
Token of My Extreme
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 54
Mud Shark
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 60
Strictly Commercial
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
It Might Just Be A One-Shot Deal
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
Excentrifugal Forz
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 20
Treacherous Cretins
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
One Size Fits All
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Grand Wazoo
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
Friendly Little Finger
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 27
Conceptual Continuity
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 9
Keep it Greasy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
We're Only In It For the Money
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
You Are What You Is
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Playground Psychotics
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Burnt Weenie Sandwich
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Token of My Extreme
 54
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Mud Shark
 54
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Strictly Commercial
 60
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
It Might Just Be A One-Shot…
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Excentrifugal Forz
 50
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Treacherous Cretins
 20
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
One Size Fits All
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Grand Wazoo
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Friendly Little Finger
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Conceptual Continuity
 27
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Keep it Greasy
 9
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
We're Only In It For the Money
 26
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
You Are What You Is
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Playground Psychotics
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Burnt Weenie Sandwich
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Zappa Dome »

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