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> 6 - Mid-Mountain
Wall of the Waltzing Witches:
10 routes, Moderate sport, faces about 20 degrees south of east, gets shady around 12-1.
12 routes, Mostly easy sport.
Wall of the Marching Munchkins:
20 routes, Moderate to hard sport.
Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs:
10 routes, Hard sport, a few multipitch.
The above 3 walls face about 20 degrees north of west, in the shade until about 12-1
Wall of the Trundling Trolls:
About 45 routes, several moderate to hard sport but mostly moderate to hard trad/mixed. The main face is almost facing directly east, gets shade around 12 or 1. The upper right face has good shade during 11-1 maybe.
This popular area is mostly sport from 5.4 to 5.12. Close to 100 routes total. A few of the easier climbs on the Towers are pretty long. There are a lot of routes in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. Mostly straight up to slightly overhanging with good variety to the holds. There are even a couple of 2nd pitches to the climbs on the Dwarf Wall. It usually cools off here pretty quickly approaching the winter season due to the abundant shade. The Troll Wall is known to be quite high quality for trad. The season is roughly April to October, chasing the sun and shade can be done to satisfy the season. Windy days can be quite cold and scary due to potential tree fall(and often likely/observed).
There can be quite a few people here on weekends, but there is usually enough to climb, you might have to wait if you are getting on some of the more popular routes, the Witch Wall may be a bit neglected but fun for moderate stuff. During the week, you probably won't see many people.
10 quickdraws is enough for most of the shorter sport routes, 16 draws gets you up almost anything probably. Standard Lemmon rack is good for the trad: full set of nuts, full set of cams(micro to #3 camalot, you might find a spot for a #4), and a few extendable slings.
Drive to the end of the Rose Canyon road and park in one of the large lots, there is also some parking along the road if it is crowded. I think as long as you park by a blue dumpster, you are ok. (Edit: Finding the trail: Ideally you should be parked in one of the 2 lots above the lake(not down by the lake), you should see picnic pavillions(north-ish, away from the lake, on your right as you drive in), a snack bar(on the right as you drive in from the road) and an amphitheatre( kinda down by the stream on the left as you first drive into the parking area). There is a bathroom building by where the road goes down to the lake area. ***The trail starts exactly behind the snack bar(which may or may not be open, small building about the size of a bedroom). You follow this trail as is goes up and skirts the huge slab. Often trees fall on the trail, but if you are ever not on a well-traveled trail, you are going the wrong way.)
From the slabs behind the snack bar and picnic ramada, pick up a trail (about the top and middle of the slabs, maybe a little on the left side) heading south/southwest (the trail will go mostly south and curve west slightly) and take it to the ridgeline (crossing several fallen trees), then follow it to a clearing/slab.
For the Towers, Wall of Marching Munchkins, and Wall of Dancing Dwarves, turn right and follow a short section of well-groomed switchbacks downhill to the climbs. For the Wall of Waltzing Witches, turn left at the clearing. All trails should be well-maintained and marked with cairns. Another way to access the Wall of the Waltzing Witches is to head up the gulley between the Two main walls and go straight across the slab at the top and turn right to hike down to the wall. This is probably about a fun 4th/5th class free solo. To get to the Troll Wall, continue past the Dwarf Wall on the trail.
More beta: hillarydavis.com/munchkinin…
Setting up a rappel to clean a route
Joe in Munchkin Land leading route
Most of the rock around here is nice and bullet proof
General Topo depicting the different walls
General approach description
Joe in Munchkin Land leading route
Shot of Munchkinland taken from the top of the Outcroppings.
Arizona Black Rattlesnake (Crotalus cerberus) on the way out from the Wiked Witch wall, Munchkinland area. This snake was irritated, but seemed very hesitant to strike. Although ready to defend its…
Clip Clip Here, Clip Clip There, a long-ish 5.9 at Munchkinland. Photo by Hillary Davis.