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GPS: 31.77063, -111.59773
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Shared By: epsilon on Nov 27, 2002 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
Warning Access Issue: Caution: Human and Drug Trafficking DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

When approaching from the West side (Baboquivari Camp), there is an easy to follow pack trail to the Lion's Ledge. When I last went on Sept '01 there was a gauntlet of cat's claw and pointy branches on the trail, so long pants are recommended. Also recommended are a high clearance vehicle for the 12mi dirt road to the camp and trip scheduling on a cool day. On a hot day on hot rocks, 4L went easily. Leave extra gear near base of the Great Ramp. From there, the trail to the West side climbs and the Southwest arete goes through brush and descends shortly through a rock hole. In general, stay near the wall when following this trail on the Lion's Ledge. The trail ascends to a west-facing arete, then descends (past a bolted route next to a water stain near the base), then ascends to the SW arete. The arete base is wide and the start of the route is easy to pass unless you keep a eye out for the identifying landmarks (ridge of hills leading to the arete, dead pine tree and groove to right). A compass and topo map might help save time on a first trip.

West Face Area: Booty!! Mine, all mine! I found an aid-hook at the base of the West face in the vicinity of several relatively new bolted routes not mentioned in Kerry's Backcountry guide. First ascentionists can get the gear back in exchange for new route info posted to this site.

Overhead shot of the SW arete: hikearizona.com/trails/tucs…

Death on the Lion's Ledge: isaac.exploratorium.edu/~pa… Poor coati wasn't smelling too fresh a month after that photo was taken.

Getting There Suggest change

West approach: There is one clear trail to the Lion's ledge, and the trailhead is found near the end of Baboquivari Camp. The sign might have fallen, as it was on my last trip.

(If you're approaching this way, through the Tohono O'odham Nation, please respect their simple request to fill out and return a registration/waiver form. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ie7XvlcqXY3VeHV9K-sI2-pEzIRYETue/view)

6 Total Climbs

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Location: West Face/ Southwest Arete Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Face/ Southwest Arete

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 35
Standard Route aka Forbes-Montoy…
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
I'itoi Dance
Trad 9 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Cloud Man Got Angry
Trad, Sport 8 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Born of Water
Trad, Sport 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Route aka Forbes-M…
 35
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
I'itoi Dance
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 9 pitches
Cloud Man Got Angry
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 8 pitches
Born of Water
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in West Face/ Southwest Arete »

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