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Routes in Hidden Jewels

Cactus Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lazy S T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left One, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right One, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soldier Blue T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Soldier of Contortion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soldier's Revenge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

Hidden Jewels is a small Mount Lemmon crag with a little more dust and dirt than many other area crags. All of the climbs are a single pitch. Most of the routes here have a few bolts, but require some gear as well. With a single 60M rope and plenty of webbing + gear to set up anchors, you can TR about anything there. What makes Hidden Jewels nice is the fact that it is low on the road, which means that they are at a low elevation, and thus warmer when it is otherwise cold. It is a reasonably short walk in, and that there is a high concentration of moderate grades in this one place. You can go here for a single day and climb everything.

The rock faces primarily West, giving morning shade and afternoon sun, so plan accoringinly.

Getting There

Drive to MP 1.3 up the Mount Lemon Highway, to a pulloff on your left, which can accomodate just a few cars. Hike up the steep Soldier Trail from here uphill through a nice forest of Saguaro Cacti for about 15 minutes, where the trail has leveled off a bit and there is a branch to the left. Along the way you will have seen out across the drainage to your left (west). There are more cliffs out there across the drainage where you can see other climbers for much of the day.The left-hand branch you have taken now leads out over the South set of Cliffs at Hidden Jewels and then further north past the base of the Northern set of cliffs in about 5 more minutes of walking.

WARNING!!!

There is a well-established hive of bees in a crack to the right of the "Lazy S" chimney, as you first approach that rock, close to the ground.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hidden Jewels

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soldier's Revenge
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Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Soldier's Revenge 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
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Alex Burton
Tucson
Alex Burton   Tucson
Don't bring dogs. There is a lot of cacti on the route and you need to bushwack. Took 40 minutes to find since we missed the branch and kept going forward. Wasn't worth it. Feb 11, 2016
mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ
mikehilbert   Tucson, AZ
How do you get to the south set of cliffs? I saw no rap station to lower down from above and the hike in to the northern set of cliffs (with the bolted 5.7s and 5.10) is already about 25 minutes.

APPROACH BETA: not sure if this is the fastest way to either set of cliffs (north or south) but I went up the Soldier Trail to where it levels off (as described here) and then went left via bushwhack into the saddle between a small hill (to the south) and a craggy hill (to the north) and went left (west) around the side of the craggy hill to get to the northern cliffs. There was no visible "triangle shaped rock" as described in SQL III nor was there any visible trail to the left off of Soldier Trail. Nov 30, 2015
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
Yes the approach is uphill but its a nice enough place, and the hand/fist crack to the right of "The Crescent" is amazing if short. It provides the rare (on lemmon) joy of climbing and entire pitch using nothing but jams, and damn they are nice feeling jams. Oct 7, 2013
JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
There is a well-established hive of bees in a crack to the right of the "Lazy S" chimney, as you first approach that rock, close to the ground. Sep 8, 2013
Thanks again Jeff (and company) for helping out yesterday! If the bees move out, we will be back to see about doing Lazy S again. Apr 8, 2012
Jimbo  
I thought two of the 5.7ish routes on the upper wall were great. Feb 11, 2011
JFox
Cottonwood
JFox   Cottonwood
This crag gets a bum rap in the guidebook, but it's a real nice, moderate, low elevation crag. It has a great view down onto Hairpin Canyon and for the life of me, I can't figure out what people mean by "not worth the approach". The approach is litterally 20 minutes, on a good trail. Sure, it's uphill, but come on people.

There are three routes on the upper tier. Two real nice 5.7's. The 5.10 is a little contrived in my opinion.

The lower tier has three routes. I did the 5.9 and thought it was fun. Some loose stuff. Rap down from good anchors, near where the trail first rounds the corner, out onto the cliffs. Feb 10, 2011
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
There are only three climbs up above, so of course that's not worth the approach. There are a number of climbs down below that are quite fun, tho. This is an especially great crag for an early morning in the summer. Mar 3, 2009
Not worth approach. There's a cool 5.9ish crack with 2 bolts (definite runout after second bolt, need medium stoppers/cams) and new chains. Get there by way of a scrambly cliff passage just north of the upper blocks. Mar 1, 2009
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
The right and left ones on the upper blocks are okay climbs, the left one has runout between bolts 3/4 (a good small nut/cam works quater inch or so) and 5/6, the gear between 5/6 is no good.

I'd have to agree that it might not really be worth the hike, can't comment on the stuff down below. The view and hike are worth it in there own right though. Rock was cold and shady, but climbable.

To get there, once you get up pretty high on the soldier trail, you'll see a cairn and a big hill to the left, a big rock formation across the valley to the right, and a ridge in front of you. You want to get around the ridge towards the left side. You will be above most of the climbs, but keep following the top of the cliff and you'll see a few big fomartions/walls/chimneys. The 2 moderates are on the obvious big face. I bet you could walk off the top, but not sure.

Good view of left hand wall, and you can hear the climbers down there yelling. Dec 2, 2007
Braxtron
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Braxtron   ...
Climbs not worth the approach, in my opinion. Feb 5, 2007
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Would recommend belayers wear helmets here Jun 17, 2006
Wes Turner   az
the unknown FA's are Jeff Mayhew's Jun 4, 2004
Pusher  
Nice morning and afternoon climbs with shade until around 1. Bit of a hike though. Aug 24, 2003

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