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Routes in Hitchcock Pinnacle

East Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North Face T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Direct "Panic Room" T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northwest Route T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 6,599 ft
GPS: 32.368, -110.716 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 13,014 total, 71/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Oct 18, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Hitchcock Pinnacle may be the most recognizable rock on Mt Lemmon. It is located just above the main parking area at Windy Point, making it popular among climbers and tourists alike.

This 40' freestanding column is most commonly climbed by its 5.7 north face, however all three routes ascending the formation are worth doing. Each route has one bolt, so unless you are willing to run it out 20 feet or more, bring some gear. Top rope can be set on all three by means of fixed anchors/chains at the top.

Despite the crowds, these climbs are great fun and incredibly photogenic.

Getting There

Drive up the Catalina Highway to the main parking area at Windy Point. Park and walk 150 feet to the obvious pinnacle uphill of the parking area.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hitchcock Pinnacle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face
Trad, Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Direct "Panic Room"
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northwest Route
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport, TR
North Face Direct "Panic Room" 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Northwest Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hitchcock Pinnacle »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Today (2/26/17) I encountered a quickdraw left on the highest bolt of the pinnacle. Send me a message with its description and I will ensure its return! Feb 26, 2017
enkoopa  
Honestly, on the 5.7 there is no place for pro between the first and second bolt. Don't fall. Feb 20, 2013
Andrew Ryder
Arizony
Andrew Ryder   Arizony
I am 95% sure that photo is in Squeezing The Lemmon. Apr 3, 2009
Luke W.
Prescott
Luke W.   Prescott
I remember years ago Rock and Ice featured this pinnacle with a group on top barbecuing. I would sure love to see that picture again. Apr 3, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Hmmm dude you seem to know those frat rituals a little too well :_0 Nov 16, 2007
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
thanks d00dz.

and christian you can do that but first you have to pass new member initiation by picking up a cherry with your butt cheeks and dropping it into a glass of beer then drinking it. Nov 16, 2007
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Jon, I'll lend you my Aliens for the 5.7 if I get to dress up like a U of A fratboy and shout: "Killlerrr, Duuuuude!' as you're heading up.

I believe Steve Grossman chopped the extra bolts Ben Burnham put up a few years ago, as explained on in the climbaz.com news section for 2001..("Steve Grossman in town for the holidays")

So now there is one bolt that is actually on the 5.7 and one bolt that actually belongs to the 5.8, but which you could probably clip if you wanted to, as seen in the picture posted under the 5.7 called "clipping the second bolt". Although a longer sling than the one used would probably be better.
Nov 16, 2007
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
When I climbed this last I went up the north face route. I believe I only placed about three pieces, two in the horizontals down low and then one in the very top of the crack that happens to have a bolt right in the middle of said crack. What I did place was on the smaller size. Nov 16, 2007
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
anyone have any pro advice? it looks like the northwest face has the best pro, is this true? any up-to-date information on how many bolts are still on this route? Nov 16, 2007
Climbed the north route in December 2001, before three bolts were removed. Route could certainly take gear, so bolts were not necessary. You will probably have an audience from all the tourists. Alway fun explaining to them how you got the rope up there (lasso, shot an arrow, rope was already there etc.) Nov 14, 2002

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