PRINT: Rock Climbing in Wild, Wild Western Pinnacles (aka Orange Rocks), Central Coast

Wild, Wild Western Pinnacles (aka Orange Rocks)

California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak

Description

This area, also known as Orange Rocks, sports 3 great "clip & go" routes from 5.10a to 5.10d. The bolts are in good condition and properly spaced. The rock is hard, clean, and has the texture of Joshua Tree Rock. It's in the sun almost all day long and dries out quickly after a rain shower. The left route is Gold Rush rated at 5.10b, the middle is Pete's 5.12 rated at 5.10d, and the right side is Mid-life Crisis rated at 5.10a. Gold Rush can be easily top roped by scrambling around to the left side of the tower. Pete's can be top roped with a bit more effort. An anchor bolt between Pete's & Mid-life will keep your belayer from falling down the hill. Step carefully to avoid damaging the vegetation! Since this area is right next to the summit trail, please be respectful of hikers by not sorting your gear on the access trail. As an added bonus, this area has great views of the City and Cerro San Luis.

Getting There

To get there from Cracked Wall, hike another 5 minutes up the summit trail. You can't miss it!

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 3 ● Magnificent .7 Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 49 ● High Noon Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 20 ● Harlot's Slot Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 45 ● Mid-Life Crisis Sport, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 16 ● Poker TR

● Magnificent .7

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● High Noon

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR

● Harlot's Slot

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport

● Mid-Life Crisis

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR

● Poker

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rebar rung?

Local guy chilling out on Orange Rocks.

Bob in his natural environment enjoying the view. Or, is he just checking out all the Poly Dollys?

It appears there are several names for this rock. The most common are Great Western Pinnacles and Orange Rocks. All routes are well bolted sport routes that can be easily top roped. You can acce…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Bullock
San Diego, CA

John is right this area is very sensitive. The vegetation around the base of the cliff is ruined. It will never come back. I suggest we (when I say we of course I mean you) make a permanent trail with erosion control and hack the broken bushes out so it doesn't look so disturbing to hikers.

Mid-life Crisis got its name from the fact that there is so much Poison Oak in the gully. I put the route up and have lead it twice more and each time I have gotten infected with Poison Oak. Which leads one to muse, "why would you go down in there and do that route, do you have something to prove?" Feb 11, 2004

John Knight
Sedona

Can anyone confirm the "real" name of these rocks? I found the Kevin Steele guidebook in the library and found out that the rock is called, "Wild, Wild Western Pinnacles". Also found different route names. I think it's important to get the orginal names and route info. Anyone? Feb 22, 2004

Stephen Pratt
Goleta, CA

Thanks for the overview of this climbing area. Was just checking it out last week on the way up to Summit Blocks and wondered how hard those were since no beta was in the SLO climbing guide. Mar 13, 2004

John Knight
Sedona

Stephen,

I'd say the ratings in the picture are pretty accurate. You can top rope thes if you don't want to lead 10a (the "easiest one").

jk Mar 17, 2004

Slater

I commented yesterday and my words showed up as Adam Jones and Annon Cllmber... because I didn't have a name on the list yet?Anyway, yes, it's High Noon. And always remember, Klis has just one s. Mar 18, 2005

A Johnson
Atascadero

Clear path as of yesterday 1/5/2020. Some brave soul did a ton of vegetation management for the benefit of the masses. These are all good, albeit short routes. Still a lot of P.O., but currently leafless and avoidable so keep your eyes peeled. Jan 6, 2020