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Routes in Wild, Wild Western Pinnacles (aka Orange Rocks)

Gold Rush/High Noon S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harlot's Slot / Pete's 5:12b S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mid-Life Crisis S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poker TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Page Views: 3,795 total, 22/month
Shared By: John Knight on Jan 23, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

This area, also known as Orange Rocks, sports 3 great "clip & go" routes from 5.10a to 5.10d. The bolts are in good condition and properly spaced. The rock is hard, clean, and has the texture of Joshua Tree Rock. It's in the sun almost all day long and dries out quickly after a rain shower. The left route is Gold Rush rated at 5.10b, the middle is Pete's 5.12 rated at 5.10d, and the right side is Mid-life Crisis rated at 5.10a. Gold Rush can be easily top roped by scrambling around to the left side of the tower. Pete's can be top roped with a bit more effort. An anchor bolt between Pete's & Mid-life will keep your belayer from falling down the hill. Step carefully to avoid damaging the vegetation! Since this area is right next to the summit trail, please be respectful of hikers by not sorting your gear on the access trail. As an added bonus, this area has great views of the City and Cerro San Luis.

Getting There

To get there from Cracked Wall, hike another 5 minutes up the summit trail. You can't miss it!

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wild, Wild Western Pinnacles (aka Orange Rocks)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mid-Life Crisis
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gold Rush/High Noon
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Harlot's Slot / Pete's 5:12b
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mid-Life Crisis 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Gold Rush/High Noon 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Harlot's Slot / Pete's 5:12b 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Wild, Wild Western Pinnacles (aka Orange Rocks) »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
All 4 of these routes are quite good. Unfortunately, the poison oak is a major deterrent. Maybe those less susceptible will get by unscathed, but I managed to somehow get it even wearing pants and long sleeves. Jan 26, 2006
Slater  
I commented yesterday and my words showed up as Adam Jones and Annon Cllmber... because I didn't have a name on the list yet?Anyway, yes, it's High Noon. And always remember, Klis has just one s. Mar 18, 2005
Stephen,

I'd say the ratings in the picture are pretty accurate. You can top rope thes if you don't want to lead 10a (the "easiest one").

jk Mar 17, 2004
Stephen Pratt
Goleta, CA
Stephen Pratt   Goleta, CA
Thanks for the overview of this climbing area. Was just checking it out last week on the way up to Summit Blocks and wondered how hard those were since no beta was in the SLO climbing guide. Mar 13, 2004
Can anyone confirm the "real" name of these rocks? I found the Kevin Steele guidebook in the library and found out that the rock is called, "Wild, Wild Western Pinnacles". Also found different route names. I think it's important to get the orginal names and route info. Anyone? Feb 22, 2004
John is right this area is very sensitive. The vegetation around the base of the cliff is ruined. It will never come back. I suggest we (when I say we of course I mean you) make a permanent trail with erosion control and hack the broken bushes out so it doesn't look so disturbing to hikers.

Mid-life Crisis got its name from the fact that there is so much Poison Oak in the gully. I put the route up and have lead it twice more and each time I have gotten infected with Poison Oak. Which leads one to muse, "why would you go down in there and do that route, do you have something to prove?" Feb 11, 2004

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