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Park Ridge Rock

California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Cabrillo Peak

Description

This 30' high rock is great for beginners. It sports 5 (or 6?) routes from 5.4 to 5.10b (Boobalicious). All are easily top roped from good anchors that can be accessed via a short walk to the left or right side. Also has some of the best views of the bay with few crowds. Left side is the Slot, a 5.7 w/edges and cracks. The classic is the 5.6 Crespi Critter which can be led with thin/small gear or top roped. Watch out for the loose flake/rock toward the top of the crack! Also has Red Dawn, 5.8 and Tips Ahoy 5.5.

Getting There

Park in the turnout about 1/2 mile south of the main parking area for Cabrillo and hike up to the rock (which is visible and obvious from the trail). Be sure not to block the gate when you park!

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
● The Slot
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
● Boobalicious
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 25
● Crespi Critter
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
● Red Dawn
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 11
● Tips Ahoy / Easy up
Trad, Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● The Slot
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Boobalicious
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
● Crespi Critter
 25
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Red Dawn
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Tips Ahoy / Easy up
 11
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Sport, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Updated Topo for Park Ridge Rock.
[Hide Photo] Updated Topo for Park Ridge Rock.
Phil Ermshar leading Crespi Critter and Brett Hayes top-roping Red Dawn. Photo by Floyd Hayes.
[Hide Photo] Phil Ermshar leading Crespi Critter and Brett Hayes top-roping Red Dawn. Photo by Floyd Hayes.
Phil Ermshar zipping up Crespi Critter. Photo by Floyd Hayes.
[Hide Photo] Phil Ermshar zipping up Crespi Critter. Photo by Floyd Hayes.
Park Ridge Rock from approach trail.
[Hide Photo] Park Ridge Rock from approach trail.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jody Langford
[Hide Comment] Which "extra" bolts were removed? I believe there were some added near the rusty chains a while ago at the ledge about 10' below the top. In my opinion, that was a good thing as it is the most convenient ledge to TR from. Whoever added the bolts near the chains did a good thing as the chains were not very trustworthy in my opinion. That being said, before the bolts were added, I just set up the TR with natural gear in the slot a little up and to the left of the chains. May 25, 2004
Jody Langford
[Hide Comment] In addition to my last comment..the location of the chains was only good for Crespi Critter and Red Dawn. Using those anchors for a TR of The Slot created a nasty pendelum situation. I didn't mind it so much but some people don't like potential pendulums. May 25, 2004
John Knight
Sedona
[Hide Comment] The Owl is back! We were there on 3/5/10 and found that owl is again nesting in the crack/ledge at the top of Easy Up/Tips Ahoy. She had 6 eggs. Please stay away from Park Ridge until she's gone and we have 6 new baby owls flying around. Mar 7, 2010
Twinboas
Quincy, CA
[Hide Comment] I climbed Tips Ahoy on 4/14/2017 and there was a barn owl behind the large flake guarding her eggs.

The barn owl trust says that March through August is considered the main breeding season - probably best to avoid this route until at least June or so. Apr 14, 2017
Clay McKell
San Luis Obispo, CA
[Hide Comment] The owls are gone as of 9/4/17. Sep 5, 2017