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Parking Lot Rock Bouldering
Routes in Parking Lot Rock
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Collins problem V10 7C+ |
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Coz Daddy V6 7A |
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Coz Mama Roof V4 6B |
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Coz Mama Sit V7 7A+ |
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Deflowered V6 7A |
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Deforestation V9 7C |
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Deforestation (sit) V12 8A+ |
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Degeneration V7 7A+ |
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Flakes V3- 6A |
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Let's Get Hurt V3 6A PG13 |
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Lieback V1 5 |
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Offwidth, The V0+ 4+ |
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Pockets V1 5 |
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Quiver, The V7 7A+ |
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Rampage Arete V7-8 7B |
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Rug Head (AKA Rug Rat) V3- 6A |
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Slopers V3 6A |
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Tree Problem V4+ 6B+ |
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Unamed Back Side Slab V3 6A |
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Unnamed V4 6B |
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Unnamed roof |
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Yabo Roof V5 6C |
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| Elevation: | 3,054 ft |
| GPS: |
37.2296, -122.0952 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 57,506 total · 261/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on May 8, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This large 10 - 20' high pile of boulders is the closest climbing to the Castle Rock official parking area, hence the name.
There are probably 20 established problems on the rock, ranging from V0 to really really hard V10, and more difficult projects to boot. Some are quite highball, others protect fairly well.
Most of the problems on this rock are pretty sustained by Castle Rock standards, with many problems staying hard from the ground up to the sketchy mantle.
All sandstone, and you can walk off the top with a little bit of exploring.
Getting There
Approach time: From the Parking lot: 5 minutes, depending on your pace. From Castle Rock proper: 3 minutes.
From the Castle Rock parking lot, head uphill on the 2nd to leftmost walking path about 150 yards uphill on a small climber's path.
From Castle Rock proper, walk around the right side of the rock to the smaller boulders slightly downhill and left of the trail. Pickup the trail heading left just below the small boulders, and follow this trail downhill to the right for about 200 yards, where it will run directly into the Parking Lot Rock.
From the Castle Rock parking lot, head uphill on the 2nd to leftmost walking path about 150 yards uphill on a small climber's path.
From Castle Rock proper, walk around the right side of the rock to the smaller boulders slightly downhill and left of the trail. Pickup the trail heading left just below the small boulders, and follow this trail downhill to the right for about 200 yards, where it will run directly into the Parking Lot Rock.
Classic Climbing Routes at Parking Lot Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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