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Routes in Sugarloaf, South Face

Bewilderbeast S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bolee Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Harder Than It Used To Be S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooker's Haven T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 4,717 ft
GPS: 38.776, -120.308 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,684 total · 30/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Mar 9, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

The South Face of Sugarloaf is most impressive of the three climb-able sides. It faces downhill and contain predominantly hard bolted face climbs. Bolee Gold (.10c) is the easiest route on the face and offers two quality pitches of sustained smearing and crimping. Many climbs start by walking around to the right side of the face and making a 5th class move (you can protect) before moving onto easy slabs and up to the first belays.

Getting There

Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The South face is staring directly at you as you hike.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf, South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bolee Gold
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bolee Gold
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
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Tyler Alves
Sacramento, CA
Tyler Alves   Sacramento, CA
Anyone know have info on the route that goes straight up from Bolee Gold through the Hooker's Haven anchors and up to the (Bird Man?) anchors?

Meant to climb Bolee, but had an excellent adventure instead! Feb 25, 2014

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