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Routes in Sugarloaf, South Face

Bolee Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Harder Than It Used To Be S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooker's Haven T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Description

The South Face of Sugarloaf is most impressive of the three climb-able sides. It faces downhill and contain predominantly hard bolted face climbs. Bolee Gold (.10c) is the easiest route on the face and offers two quality pitches of sustained smearing and crimping. Many climbs start by walking around to the right side of the face and making a 5th class move (you can protect) before moving onto easy slabs and up to the first belays.

Getting There

Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The South face is staring directly at you as you hike.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf, South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Tyler Alves
Sacramento, CA
Tyler Alves   Sacramento, CA
Anyone know have info on the route that goes straight up from Bolee Gold through the Hooker's Haven anchors and up to the (Bird Man?) anchors?

Meant to climb Bolee, but had an excellent adventure instead! Feb 25, 2014

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