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Routes in Sugarloaf, West Face

Back in Black T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cry Mary T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Merchant Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Ghost in the Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Delusion T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Happy Face T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyperspace T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mackerel Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Only the Young Die Brave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pan Dulce T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Podium, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pony Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slippy Liam S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TM's Deviation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Twist and Shout T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ziploc T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:

Description

The west face gets lots of afternoon sun, though trees shade some of the single pitch routes. While many of the routes are hard bolted face climbs, there are also a handful of nice trad routes including Pony Express (5.9) who's first pitch is widely considered to be the best 5.8 at Sugarloaf.

Getting There

Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The west side faces left when you're looking uphill at sugarloaf. The West Chimney (5.8) is easy to spot. The majority of the climbs start further uphill.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf, West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 156
Pony Express
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 4
The Podium
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
TM's Deviation
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Hyperspace
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
Happy Face
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Espresso
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
The Man Who Fell to Earth
Trad, Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Slippy Liam
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pony Express
 156
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Podium
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
TM's Deviation
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Hyperspace
 45
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Happy Face
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Espresso
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Man Who Fell to Earth
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport, TR
Slippy Liam
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sugarloaf, West Face »

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