Elevation: 1,389 ft
GPS: 36.49795, -121.2038
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,806 total · 131/month
Shared By: Keebler on Nov 6, 2003
Admins: andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Welcome to the west side of the Pinnacles. The cliffs are taller and the crowds much smaller. The Flumes Formation is a great cliff for the intermediate leader. You have well bolted sport routes on decent rock. The routes range from 5.6 to 5.10 and make for a good days outing. Check out Kibbles and Bits, try linking it with Rebecca's Sailing for a fun long route or do it in two short pitches. The 5.8 overhang, makes an exciting finish.

If you are looking for a bit harder route, give Jumangi a try. It is a short route but has some committing moves. Don't feel like leading it, just traverse over from the top of Bits and Pieces or Tilting Terrace and set up a top rope.

Another good route is Nipples and Knobs 5.10a-b. This route shares the first bolt with Tilting Terrace and then heads up and right through steep knobs. It is well protected route and contains a two bolt chained anchor.

Getting There

From the West Side parking lot take the Balconies Trail 0.6mi to the junction with the Balconies Cave Trail.  The Flumes formation is to your west.  Hike up the Balconies Trail from here making short approaches from several switchbacks as they get close to the formation.  There are carabiner trail markers indicating the climber's trails in this area.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Flumes Formation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Self Selecting Substrate
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Where the Sun Shines
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Cool Daze
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Tilting Terrace
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 50
Bits and Pieces
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 64
Kibbles and Bits
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Rebecca's Sailing
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Adam's Apple
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Jumangi
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Nipples and Knobs
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Self Selecting Substrate Upper Flumes Formation
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Where the Sun Shines Upper Flumes Formation
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Cool Daze Lower Flumes Formation
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Tilting Terrace Lower Flumes Formation
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Bits and Pieces Lower Flumes Formation
 50
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Kibbles and Bits Lower Flumes Formation
 64
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rebecca's Sailing Lower Flumes Formation
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Adam's Apple Lower Flumes Formation
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jumangi Lower Flumes Formation
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Nipples and Knobs Lower Flumes Formation
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Flumes Formation »

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