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Routes in Flumes Formation

Adam's Apple S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bits and Pieces S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Daze S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jumangi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kibbles and Bits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nipples and Knobs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Once Around the Backside S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rebecca's Sailing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilting Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

Welcome to the west side of the Pinnacles. The cliffs are taller and the crowds much smaller. The flumes formation is a great cliff for the intermediate leader. You have well bolted sport routes on decent rock. The 8 routes range from 5.7 to 5.10 and make for a good days outing. Check out kibbles and bits, try linking it with Rebecca's Sailing for a fun long route or do it in two short pitches. The 5.8 overhang, makes and exciting finish.

If you are looking for a bit harder route, give Jumangi a try. It is a short route but has some commiting moves. Don't feel like leading it, just traverse over from the top of Bits and Pieces or tilting terrace and set up a top rope.

Another good route is Nipples and Knobs 5.10a-b, this route shares the first bolt with tilting terrace and then heads up and right through steep knobs. It is well protected route and contains a two bolt chained anchor.
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Getting There

Please see the Pinnacles guide book for a reference.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Flumes Formation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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ThomasT  
Caution!

As of 12/5/2015 there is a large rock that looks like it is going to go at any second. Directly below it is the belay station for the second pitch of Tilting Terrace and for Cool Daze. Use extreme caution when belaying and don't touch the rock unless you mean to take it out of the wall. It can be seen in the photo of Cool Daze. It is on the right hand side in the moss streak. Dec 5, 2015
rhyang
San Jose, CA
rhyang   San Jose, CA
According to Brad Young's excellent guidebook , there are five parts of this formation with established routes. Here are approach instructions to the NE side :

1. From the westside parking lot, take the Balconies Trail (NOT the North Wilderness Trail), from the far end of the Chaparral picnic area.

2. Turn left at the junction with the Juniper Canyon trail.

3. Cross about five footbridges. At the 'climber access' sign for the Destiny Wall ('Destiny' is another name for Dos Equis, 5.8 R), turn left and cross another footbridge.

4. Go straight, uphill towards the Balconies (turning right will take you to the Balconies Caves, Chockstone Dome, etc). There will be a few switchbacks on this trail.

5. At another climber access sign for Tilting Terrace, turn left and follow a climber's trail to the NE side of the Flumes. Dec 12, 2010

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