Elevation: 1,389 ft
GPS: 36.498, -121.204 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,095 total · 60/month
Shared By: Keebler on Nov 6, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Welcome to the west side of the Pinnacles. The cliffs are taller and the crowds much smaller. The flumes formation is a great cliff for the intermediate leader. You have well bolted sport routes on decent rock. The 8 routes range from 5.7 to 5.10 and make for a good days outing. Check out kibbles and bits, try linking it with Rebecca's Sailing for a fun long route or do it in two short pitches. The 5.8 overhang, makes and exciting finish.

If you are looking for a bit harder route, give Jumangi a try. It is a short route but has some commiting moves. Don't feel like leading it, just traverse over from the top of Bits and Pieces or tilting terrace and set up a top rope.

Another good route is Nipples and Knobs 5.10a-b, this route shares the first bolt with tilting terrace and then heads up and right through steep knobs. It is well protected route and contains a two bolt chained anchor.

Getting There

Please see the Pinnacles guide book for a reference.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Flumes Formation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
Cool Daze
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Tilting Terrace
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
Bits and Pieces
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Kibbles and Bits
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
Rebecca's Sailing
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Adam's Apple
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
Jumangi
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Nipples and Knobs
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cool Daze
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Tilting Terrace
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Bits and Pieces
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Kibbles and Bits
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rebecca's Sailing
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Adam's Apple
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jumangi
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Nipples and Knobs
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Flumes Formation »

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Photos

rhyang
San Jose, CA
rhyang   San Jose, CA
According to Brad Young's excellent guidebook , there are five parts of this formation with established routes. Here are approach instructions to the NE side :

1. From the westside parking lot, take the Balconies Trail (NOT the North Wilderness Trail), from the far end of the Chaparral picnic area.

2. Turn left at the junction with the Juniper Canyon trail.

3. Cross about five footbridges. At the 'climber access' sign for the Destiny Wall ('Destiny' is another name for Dos Equis, 5.8 R), turn left and cross another footbridge.

4. Go straight, uphill towards the Balconies (turning right will take you to the Balconies Caves, Chockstone Dome, etc). There will be a few switchbacks on this trail.

5. At another climber access sign for Tilting Terrace, turn left and follow a climber's trail to the NE side of the Flumes. Dec 12, 2010
ThomasT  
Caution!

As of 12/5/2015 there is a large rock that looks like it is going to go at any second. Directly below it is the belay station for the second pitch of Tilting Terrace and for Cool Daze. Use extreme caution when belaying and don't touch the rock unless you mean to take it out of the wall. It can be seen in the photo of Cool Daze. It is on the right hand side in the moss streak. Dec 5, 2015