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Elevation: 7,349 ft 2,240 m
GPS: 38.83003, -120.0368
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 21,392 total · 85/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Sep 2, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

This section of rocks is located just below the area known as Berkeley Camp, which is a section of National forest land that is leased by the city of Berkeley, and is known as Berkeley Municipal Camp. This rock can be seen from highway 50 below, though it is nearly invisible from the camp itself.

8 climbs, 7 sport and one aid route exist on rocks that vary between 40 and 60 feet in height, on excellent vertical to slightly overhung granite. All climbing is sport, and routes are very well protected.

All climbs face East and North, so you will find yourself in the shade in the afternoons.

Most climbs sit underneath the Berkeley Camp lodge, though one climb known as Berkeley Bezerker (5.11a?) sits apart from the other climbing about 100 yards south, and starts on a large dead tree stump in a separate section of the same cliff band.

When wandering from established trails, there is a small chance of unexploded ordnance from avalanche control work.

Just an FYI - the Berkeley Camp staff request that climbers check in at the office while camp is in session, and there are signs up stating this. They've always been super friendly to me, and the reason is that they are in charge of a bunch of kids, and don't really want strangers just walking through camp without checking in. Bottom line is: be friendly to the staff there so climbers remain on good terms with the camp.

Getting There Suggest change

***NEW TRAIL***

Drive toward the Echo Lakes parking but before you get there you'll see a collection of small cabins on the right and a driveway into the camp. You can park on the road here, or all the way into the parking lot if the road is full. 

Walk about 100 yards and go to the right of the basketball court and the cliffside rec lodge.  

Go to the RIGHT of the lodge where you'll find a large cairn and a new switchback trail down to the rocks installed by the Tahoe Climbing Coalition along with the YCA. Do NOT use the old gully down. 

There are plans to extend the trail to the newer climbs to the south. This new trail will service both areas coming summer 2024.. 

13 Total Climbs

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Location: Berkeley Camp Rocks Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Berkeley Camp Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Mellow Arete
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
First Stage
Sport, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 11
Unknown
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Salt Water Flush
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 39
New Jersey Turnpike
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Berkeley Berserker
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 15
Flu
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Leflie
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Flu Variation
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Witch Doctor
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mellow Arete
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
First Stage
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Unknown
 11
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Salt Water Flush
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
New Jersey Turnpike
 39
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Berkeley Berserker
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flu
 15
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Leflie
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flu Variation
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Witch Doctor
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Berkeley Camp Rocks »

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