Berkeley Camp Rocks Climbing
Routes in Berkeley Camp Rocks
|First Stage S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Flu S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Leflie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|New Jersey Turnpike S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Salt Water Flush S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Unknown S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Unknown 5.6 Arete S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Witch Doctor S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|GPS:||38.83, -120.037 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Aron Quiter on Sep 2, 2003|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis section of rocks is located just below the area known as Berkeley Camp, which is a section of National forest land that is leased by the city of Berkeley, and is known as Berkeley Municipal Camp. This rock can be seen from highway 50 below, though it is nearly invisible from the camp itself.
8 climbs, 7 sport and one aid route exist on rocks that vary between 40 and 60 feet in height, on excellent vertical to slightly overhung granite. All climbing is sport, and routes are very well protected.
All climbs face East and North, so you will find yourself in the shade in the afternoons.
Most climbs sit underneath the Berkeley Camp lodge, though one climb known as Berkeley Bezerker (5.11a?) sits apart from the other climbing about 100 yards south, and starts on a large dead tree stump in a separate section of the same cliff band.
When wandering from established trails, there is a small chance of unexploded ordnance from avalanche control work.
Just an FYI - the Berkeley Camp staff request that climbers check in at the office while camp is in session, and there are signs up stating this. They've always been super friendly to me, and the reason is that they are in charge of a bunch of kids, and don't really want strangers just walking through camp without checking in. Bottom line is: be friendly to the staff there so climbers remain on good terms with the camp.
Getting ThereInstead of heading up to the Echo Lake parking lot on Echo Pass road, head only about 1 1/2 miles up, where you will see a sign stating "Berkeley Camp Parking" with an arrow pointing to the left. You can park on the road here, or go into the parking lot if the road is full. Walk accross the street to the area full of some covered structures, and some uncovered structures known as Berkeley Camp.
Walk about 250 yards to the Northeast section of Berkeley Camp (the left end, not very far in) to the large structure known (by the sign on the front) as the Lodge. It's also easily indentified because there's a paved basketball court in front of it. Walk behind the Lodge around the short fence, and down the narrow gully. All climbs will be on your left, except Berkeley Berzerker, which is about 100 yards to the southeast in the next section of cliffs.
Classic Climbing Routes at Berkeley Camp Rocks
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season