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The Treasure Chest

California > San Francisco B… > Wine Country/No… > Salt Point SP

Description

Belaying from a slab that waves crash onto, this rock is the best short (40' - 50')sport rock in the bay area in my opinion.

Containing short sustained sport climbs on mostly excellent sandstone, this rock is has many excellent interesting qualities to it:

1) It's a quick approach from the car (5 minutes), but it requires a rappell for the short route.

2) Waves will splash you when the tide is high or there is a swell. The crashing waves and resulting suction noises add to the wonderment and thrill of climbing here. This is the only place in the bay area where looking behind you is usually looking into a ferocious wave.

3) The multicolored sandstone is gorgeous.

4) Just around the corner from the main areas of Fisk Mill cove, this rock gives an incredibly remote feeling, despite the relative proximity of both the observation tower on top of Senital Rock and Shipwreck Wall.

5) Climbs are deceptively sustained.

This is my opinion is the BEST short sport rock in all of the bay area. Sport climbs range from 5.10a to 5.13b, with a very diverse range in between. There's also a 5.7 crack for you tradheads out there.

Climbing is in the sun most of the day, as the cove faces southwest. You'll probably find some shade here in the winter.

Be warned - a nasty wave WILL cause havoc and pull anyone and anything that it hits back out into the ocean. Use caution while climbing in high surf and/or high tides. The once a day wave that surfers love will be a major concern to climbers entering this remote feeling rock. Getting help will not be easy either, as the walk around (assuming it's possible) will take you 15 minutes at a full run.

Getting There

Approach time: 5 minutes (rappell) or 20 minutes.

Approach #1:

Assuming you're okay with rappelling, this is the approach for you. Head Northwest out of the main parking lot on the Trail to Fisk Mill Cove. Find a way to the rock just below the oberservation tower. Supposedly there is a trail nearly directly from the parking lot, but I couldn't find it. I walked the 200 yards to the observation tower (which involves taking a left headed uphill at the sign that says "Senitel Rock" about 150 yards into the trail), jumped the fence, walked and slid down 150 feet or so on the class 3 rocks that make up the slope looking left from the observation deck.

During this slide, you will be at the top of the shipwreck wall, though this is not a good way to approach this rock, since there are no easily accessable rappell or top anchor bolts. Continue down the right side of the ramp until the rock ends and the cliff is in front of you. You will find rappell bolts in a 3' wide crack section about halfway through the face. From this area, the bolts and anchor of the rightside route (?) are visible. The rappell is about 45 feet.

Approach #2:

It should be noted that this approach is only "easy" at very low water. It's probably not safe a good chunk of the time.

Follow the Fisk Mill Cove Trail Northwest out of the parking lot about 500 yards as it stays above and parallels the beach. Using a staircase whose days are SEVERELY numbered, you will gain access to the beach and will be in full view of the Shipwreck Wall, which is down the beach to your left. Walk over to Shipwreck Wall using the large rocks once you get close. Water height or bouldering ability will get you over the last few rocks out to the right edge of the Shipwreck wall, and the Treasure Chest is just around the corner.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 21
Captain Hook
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
Captain Crunch
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 2
Capitan Cornburglar
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
The Angler
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Mr. Salty
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
Booty
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
Blue Beard
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Spread Eagle (aka Gritty Kitty)
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Salty Dog
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Red Beard
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Captain Hook
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Captain Crunch
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Capitan Cornburglar
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Angler
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Mr. Salty
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Booty
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Blue Beard
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Spread Eagle (aka Gritty Ki…
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Salty Dog
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Red Beard
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Treasure Chest from the top of Red Beard
[Hide Photo] Treasure Chest from the top of Red Beard
Leave a fixed line on the rap so you can jug out if waves get intense or if you're too tired to climb out.
[Hide Photo] Leave a fixed line on the rap so you can jug out if waves get intense or if you're too tired to climb out.
The Treasure Chest
[Hide Photo] The Treasure Chest
Always stay for sunset...
[Hide Photo] Always stay for sunset...
View down on Treasure Chest
[Hide Photo] View down on Treasure Chest

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
[Hide Comment] The routes at Treasure Chest are badly in need of consensus grades. Please post up. I managed to flash 5.11 and get totally shut down on .10c here. Perhaps holds/routes have changed? Jun 2, 2007
[Hide Comment] Was here on 7/8, there were two cormorants nesting on a ledge in the middle of all the routes/rappel station. Give the area a look before you toss your rope down. Additionally, there were some aggressive falcons on Shipwreck wall which i later found out were protecting a stashed sea gull kill. Beware of the tides and skies! Jul 10, 2017
[Hide Comment] A note on the approach, we did the slab descent from the observation platform, then later found it much easier to instead just follow a trail around the south flank of the hill leading straight over to the top of Gritty Kitty.

We found it extremely useful to have a small rack from .4-3". There is a crack running along the base of the wall perfect for anchoring in your belayer and your gear.

Additionally, many of the routes have pockets before the first bolt, so we just placed a cam or two off the deck, rather than breaking out the stick clip (since decking down there would not be good!). Nov 20, 2017
Cameron Cutting
Mountain View, CA
[Hide Comment] Word of warning: Go to this crag with the knowledge that you will likely get soaked by a giant wave, and prepare acordingly.
(Leave a change of clothes at the car, only bring down what you need and anchor it properly.) The corner underneath Gritty Kitty seemed to be free from splash. May 1, 2023