PRINT: Climbing in Sunset Boulders, San Francisco Bay Area

Sunset Boulders

California > San Francisco B… > Wine Country/No… > Sonoma Coast SP > Goat Rock

Description

This rock is mostly top roping, though at a "mere" 30 feet, many people choose to boulder a lot of the routes as well.

Being out in the open, this rock will always be in the sun on one side or the other. It's out in the open, so this is a great place to climb on a sunny day. On a foggy, windy day, there is very little protection from the elements, and this would be a very chilly place to be.

Most routes are probably best lowered off, though brave souls will need to downclimb a 5.2 route to get off of the rock.

Pelican Arete (5.10a) is a must do, and is a pretty tough 5.10a!

Getting There

Approach time: 5 minutes.

From the turnoff into Gaot Rock State Park, drive ~ 1/4 mile to a large pullout on the left. There are several of these pullouts, and almost all will get you to the rocks. If the road goes up the hill and bends to the right, you've gone a little too far, and should turn around.

From the parking pullout, hike downhill into the meadow, where the rocks are a can't miss.

This is the tallest of the rocks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A panorama of the main climbing area. Sunset Face on the left, Pelican Arete on the right.

View from parking lot trail

The rocks at Sunset taken from the path down to the ocean.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul Rezucha
Alameda

Goat Rock is a great place to visit. Beautiful setting with quite a few good routes. Expect others as it's a great place to bring beginners because of easy access and small selection of easier routes. Beware that the Falcon Guide Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area by Tresa Black seems to underrate many of the routes here. See my other comments for some of the routes. Because most of the routes are top roped, this doesn't pose a real danger but if bouldering or leading, expect the routes to be a grade or so harder than stated. If you have the time, it is definitely worth the trip to also visit Dry Creek Sea Crag. Another beautiful area with routes ranging from 5.6 and upward. Apr 22, 2003

Avery Worthing-Jones

I really liked this area. Kind of a shame that it was the last place I visited on Labor Day weekend. I was pretty burnt out by the time I got there so I was not able to fully enjoy the climbing. I will say this, great view even if you are not going to climb. Sep 8, 2004

Floyd Hayes

When I climbed here on November 7, 2009, somebody had recently placed new top-rope anchors atop Sunset Face, Sunset Corner and Pelican Arete. Dec 3, 2009

splitclimber

Please tread lightly, avoid trampling vegetation and leave no trace at these beautiful boulders. If coming in large groups, please carpool and consider other climbers experience here. thx. Feb 22, 2016

David Pfurr
Mt. Shasta, CA

Planning to TR here--probably once in my lifetime--with the family this summer. Will tread lightly in this beautiful place. Any suggestions for gear for rigging top-ropes? I'm thinking static line, cordelettes, locking biners and rope. Aug 13, 2016

Floyd Hayes

You will need to free solo or lead easy class 5 (5.4-5.6) to set up a top-rope on the best climbs at Ram Rock. Clipping one notorious bolt (above Sunset Slab) with a carabiner will cross load it on a ledge (I suggest girth hitching it with a sling). Slings and quick draws are all you need to set up top-rope anchors. Aug 20, 2016

Matthew R
Fresno

Lovely place to climb. Great change of scenery and style for us from the climbing in the sierras we normally do. This place has boulder problems, almost gym length routes you can lead, solo, or TR. Theres more listed than what's on mountain project too. Even a SUPER easy 30' rock (not ram rock) with anchors, but we just did solo laps on it up and down! Dec 28, 2019