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Leaning Tower, The

California > San Francisco B… > Marin/Northwest… > Mt Tamalpais
Warning Access Issue: Park closed nightly from sunset to 7:00 am DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the next main rock down the path from the observation tower, and it holds some easier climbing than the nearby Oberman's Rock. You will find some beginner climbs in the 5.3 - 5.7 range, and also a few other tougher climbs up to a 5.11a.

You this rock also faces primarily southeast, so you will find yourself in the sun until it passes over the nearby hillside.

All routes should be top roped, though you could probably trad lead some of the easier routes. All routes can also be walked off, and access from the top is most easily achieved walking southward from the top of Oberman's Rock .

The gently overhung 5.10b eastern face climb is an excellent sustained workout, and the arete just to the left of the east face is a great 5.9 jug haul.

Getting There

From the parking lot, head .3 miles up the plank trail to just below the lookout tower. Instead of going right up the finished stone path to the observation tower, continue along the trail to the south.

Oberman's Rock will come into view shortly, it being the only severly overhung rock that is large enough to be more than a boulder problem.

About 25 yards later, there will be a narrow trail heading sharply downhill, which will take you to Oberman's rock.

Continue another fifty yards south, and you will find The Leaning Tower. Most of the climbs are around the corner from the view taken from Oberman's Rock.

Routes from Left to Right

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 11
Southern Face
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Old Bolt Route
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 19
Southeastern Arete
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Eastern Face
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southern Face
 11
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Old Bolt Route
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Southeastern Arete
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Eastern Face
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Oberman's Rock + The Leaning Tower (maybe can see some of South crag). Taken from the top of the North crag
[Hide Photo] Oberman's Rock + The Leaning Tower (maybe can see some of South crag). Taken from the top of the North crag
Leaning Tower: SoEast Ridge and E-Face
[Hide Photo] Leaning Tower: SoEast Ridge and E-Face
Leaning Tower, from near the base of the Southern Formation
[Hide Photo] Leaning Tower, from near the base of the Southern Formation
Look for this distinctive 'notch' - this is the final part of "Southeastern Arete/The Prow" and "Old Bolt Route/Buoux". Spotting this helped me orientate myself.
[Hide Photo] Look for this distinctive 'notch' - this is the final part of "Southeastern Arete/The Prow" and "Old Bolt Route/Buoux". Spotting this helped me orientate myself.
Climbing the right leaning tower
[Hide Photo] Climbing the right leaning tower
Setting up TR anchor
[Hide Photo] Setting up TR anchor
Setting up anchor on the top
[Hide Photo] Setting up anchor on the top