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Elevation: 2,743 ft 836 m
GPS: 37.2257, -122.0984
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 42,571 total · 149/month
Shared By: Matt Andrews on Sep 27, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This Rock requires a bit of a hike, but is well worth it for its pleasant shaded atmosphere, and the number of moderate slab routes (5.8-5.11mumble) it offers. All of the routes can be relatively easily top roped, and most are bolted.

Getting There Suggest change

Approach Time: 25 minutes.

Option 1: Start from the old Castle Rock State Park parking lot (backpackers lot), and start down the Saratoga Gap trail (trailhead with a large map) for about 200 yards until the Castle Rock trail which splits off to the left up the hill at a signpost.

Follow the left trail up the hill through a number of switchbacks until you see the first smaller unmarked trail to the right (there is a log along the right side of the main trail which separates it from the smaller trail and a sign informing you that this is not 'the' trail.) Take this right trail, and if you see a series of nice looking boulders on your left (the largest with a small cavelike formation called The Graveyard Boulders and Pyramid Rock) you have gone too far.

Take the climbers trail for about 100 yards to a moderate clearing with a fork in the trail (this used to be part of an old road.) There are two small trails (ok, they look more like goat paths than trails) on the far side of the clearing. Take the left trail. You'll go past Chew Tooth Rock's top on your left. Continue going down the hill at Chew Tooth, the right path up the hill leads to Platypus and Shady Rock. A little further down the trail you'll hit the top of California Ridge. 

Go to the left before the top of California Ridge's top and follow the more cleared path which has a series of longer switchbacks. You'll pass by the top of The Gods on your left. Top ropes for most of the climbs on Underworld can be set up by going straight down the fall line of the hill from here and using one of 2 sets of bolts accessible. To access the base of Underworld, continue straight until a clearing with a downed tree in the middle. Turn to the left and follow the trail to the left and down to the base where you'll hit the climber's left side of Underworld Rock.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Underworld Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 55
Hair Dresser
Trad, Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 80
Hit Man
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Drug Lord
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Gestapo Priest
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 82
Up The Poop Chute
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
High on Adrenaline
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
Black Market Babies
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Butt Hole Bypass
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hair Dresser
 55
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport, TR
Hit Man
 80
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Drug Lord
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Gestapo Priest
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Up The Poop Chute
 82
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
High on Adrenaline
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Black Market Babies
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Butt Hole Bypass
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Underworld Rock »

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