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Main Rock

California > San Francisco B… > Mickey's Beach

Description

This is the main rock at Mickey's beach. When you head down the main path into Mickey's beach, this will be the prominent rock you see. There are approximately 20 routes on the main rock, mostly quite tough. There are two 5.10's (a b and c) and then a few .11d's, the rest comprising of .12's and lower end 13's.

There are no access issues here, as the state parks system has turned a blind eye on the area. All they ask is that if you bolt, make sure to maintain what you've added.

There are tons of classics on the main rock, and if you're into tough climbing and are spending some time in the bay area and don't want to drive more than a few hours, this is where you should be.

This area will be in the sun most of the time, but some of the lower routes are tide dependent, as the rock sits literally on the beach. Beware of fog in the morning, and also in the winter months.

Getting There

From the main parking lot, head down the major path that was recently cleaned (September 14th, 2002 thank you Rock Rendevous). The main rock will be the prominent rock in the middle of the first cluster you see as you come to the beach.

The majority of climbs are around the right side of the rock.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 31
Left Slab
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 94
Corner Route
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 61
Walkin' a Thin Line
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Pelicans
Sport, TR
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Holy Mackerel
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
Wet Dreams
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 2
Dreams of White Porsches
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 1
Dream On
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 2
Mickey's Beach Arete
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
 5
Naked and Disfigured
Sport, TR
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 1
Mutiny
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 2
Scorpio Rising
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 39
Hot Tuna
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Sharky's Machine
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 2
Megalodon
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
 2
Big Tuna
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Motion In The Ocean
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
 3
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamons…
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 23
Courtney
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 6
Nancy
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
Squid Vicious
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 26
Sex Porpoises
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
The Mickey's Beach 4x7
Sport 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Slab
 31
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Sport, TR
Corner Route
 94
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Walkin' a Thin Line
 61
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Pelicans
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, TR
Holy Mackerel
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Wet Dreams
 8
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Dreams of White Porsches
 2
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Dream On
 1
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
Mickey's Beach Arete
 2
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Naked and Disfigured
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R Sport, TR
Mutiny
 1
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Scorpio Rising
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Hot Tuna
 39
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sharky's Machine
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Megalodon
 2
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Big Tuna
 2
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R Sport
Motion In The Ocean
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Se…
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 Sport
Courtney
 23
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Nancy
 6
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Squid Vicious
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Sex Porpoises
 26
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Mickey's Beach 4x7
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport 7 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sunset viewed from the main rock
[Hide Photo] Sunset viewed from the main rock
Me belaying a friend on the Mickeys main wall
[Hide Photo] Me belaying a friend on the Mickeys main wall
Friend max on the easy part of the rock.
[Hide Photo] Friend max on the easy part of the rock.
From the approach, about halfway down the trail. The Main Rock is on the left, Peeper's Rock is the front right, and The Grey Slab is the back right rock.
[Hide Photo] From the approach, about halfway down the trail. The Main Rock is on the left, Peeper's Rock is the front right, and The Grey Slab is the back right rock.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Hey folks, someone swiped 6 of my draws (5 brand new black/gold black diamond and 1 old gray BD draw) off of 'Sturgeon' either 9/19 or 9/20. If that was you or you know the person who grabbed them, please email me at ijameswalters@gmail.com. Thank you! Aug 21, 2016