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Indian Joe Caves
California
> San Francisco B…
> E Bay Area
Description
Located south-east of Pleasanton, Sunol Regional Wilderness presently only has developed climbing at Indian Joe Caves, but other opportunities appear to exist as well. There's a pretty wide variety of rock types in the park, but Indian Joe caves is meta basalt. While approaching the area, you can see some rocks on the top of a hill west of the main entrance, this is called flag mountain and appears to have climbing on it, though development has been discouraged because of concerns it would disrupt raptor nesting. There's a $5 entrance fee and the gate gets locked a little after dusk (9 p.m. in August), though camping is permitted in the park.A pile of meta basalt rocks, Indian Joe caves offers top roping, bouldering and the occasional trad lead on formations reaching up to 40 feet. The holds tend to be either angular or crimpy and the climbing can be anything from slab, cracks, chimney, impressive aretes, or overhung faces. There's also a wide range of existing climbs, 5.3 to 5.12c. There is also the potential for several climbs with difficulties considerably higher.In the summer, Indian Joe Caves get pretty warm and it would be wisest to avoid climbing the routes that get sun, as the black rock absorbes the sun's heat and makes climbing almost unbearable. Fortunately, there's always a handful of climbs that never get sun and therefore are a lot cooler than their brighter counterparts.Visit the
Sunol Regional Wilderness park website for the latest official information on visiting it.
Getting There
From the 680-580 interchange, take 680 south 8 miles to the highway 84/Calaveras road. Go left on Calaveras and follow it past where the speed limit drops to 25. Shortly after the speed limit change go left (4.3 miles from the turn onto Calaveras) on Geary Road. Shortly thereafter you'll reach the fee station.
After entering the park, pass the first left turn (about 50 yards in), which heads to the visitors center, and park just beyond on the left side of the road next to a trailhead (about another 50 yards). Hike across the wooden bridge over a stream, and head right at the junction. Continue another 50 yards until you come to Hayfield Road (which you're not allowed to drive on... though bikes and horses are permitted). Go left on Hayfield road and walk up the road for .8 miles. There's an obvious sign directing you to Indian Joe Caves, follow it right, you'll be able to see the crag up the hill on your left a little ways down this smaller trail. This will meet with the Indian Joe Creek Trail and continue up hill for another ~300 yards until you arrive at the crag. The first landmark is the tallest rock, with a sharp arete on the right, the arete is Orange Arete (11a) and the face is Little Eiger (12c). Paths circumnavigate the climbing area, and most of the warm-up stuff is reached fastest by going clockwise around the area to the backside.
The approach is 1.3 miles with 600 feet of elevation gain and fairly exposed (if taking Hayfield Rd - there is more shade using the Indian Joe Creek trail).
![Map of the area; hopefully it clears up some of the confusion. Done as a panorama using a GoPro on a clip stick since drones aren't allowed here]()
[Hide Photo] Map of the area; hopefully it clears up some of the confusion. Done as a panorama using a GoPro on a clip stick since drones aren't allowed here
![Looking northeast at the crag. Cleavage Rock on the left, Edge rock with the guy standing on it, and the bouldering area to the right.]()
[Hide Photo] Looking northeast at the crag. Cleavage Rock on the left, Edge rock with the guy standing on it, and the bouldering area to the right.
![Climber's trial to top of Little Climber's and Edge Rock that goes around patch of poison oak. This is looking back towards the main trial.]()
[Hide Photo] Climber's trial to top of Little Climber's and Edge Rock that goes around patch of poison oak. This is looking back towards the main trial.
![Lot's of poison oak around and near the rock. Easy enough to avoid, but be careful out there!]()
[Hide Photo] Lot's of poison oak around and near the rock. Easy enough to avoid, but be careful out there!
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Mountain View, CA
Clovis, CA
San Jose, CA
San Jose, CA
The approach is mostly uphill. The creek trail is more scenic and shady but the fire road is easier and more straightforward, though it can be muddy after a rain. I think it's 1.1 miles up the fire road (Hayfield Rd.) and at least 1.3 miles up the creek trail. At closing time (5pm in the winter) the park promptly locks the entrance gate but departing visitors can still drive out over a one-way spike strip. Parking/entry is usually $5 per vehicle (plus $2 per dog) but happened to be free when I went on MLK Monday. There is no cell service by the visitor center or at the crag but as you climb the fire road you will have a weak signal along part of the approach. The wi-fi signal in the parking lot is only for staff and not for visitors. As noted in directions, the 2nd parking lot on the left is closer to the trailhead; if you're in the first lot, cross the picnic grass to the wooden footbridge to start the approach.
Little Eiger now has at least 3 sport routes but they are all more difficult ones. Also 3 or 4 trad routes at the crag, mostly short and easier (5.6 to 5.8) ones. Jan 21, 2020
Washington, DC
Berkeley, CA