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Shady Rock
California
> San Francisco B…
> S Bay Area
> Castle Rock Area
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Shady Rock is a neat little ship of a rock, hidden deep under the forest canopy, but planted on the edge of Stevens Creek Canyon, with big views to the south and west.
In Bruce Morris's guidebook, "Climber's Guide to Skyline Boulevard", Shady Rock is divided into a west side and east side. The west side is preferable, with clean, pocketed, near-vertical sandstone and four bolted routes in the 5.8-5.10 range. The rock on the east side appears much dirtier. It is crumbly and predominantly overhanging. The routes here are 5.10-5.11.
A boulder traverse (left to right) of the entire rock is rated 5.11. Again, the portion on the west side is cleaner, easier, and in my opinion, more fun!
Getting There
Easiest access is via the main Castle Rock State Park parking lot. Proceed down the Saratoga Gap trail for approximately 0.25 miles. On the right, you'll see a signed trail directing you to "Castle Rock 0.3 miles". In fact, it is MUCH further to Castle Rock itself, but you don't care.
Continue uphill on this trail for approximately 0.25 miles. On the right, note a climber's trail with a log across it, and a sign discouraging you from using it (it says "trail" with an arrow pointing you away from it). Continue for 0.1 miles. You'll come to a small "meadow" with three possible trails. Continue slightly left and uphill. On your left, you'll see a large rock, called "Chew Tooth". Keep going uphill for another 0.2 miles. You'll see a nice overlook ahead, and a seeming dead end. Shady Rock is hidden on the right. You will also be able to see Platypus Rock on your right as you head to shady rock.
[Hide Comment] Most of the climbs say TR, but I didn't see a way to get to the top without first leading or highballing. Is there a way up I didn't notice?
Oct 5, 2015
[Hide Comment] This area is one of my favorite due to the generally low amount of people on the rock. Occasionally there are groups being guided there but generally it is fairly empty.
Jul 7, 2016
[Hide Comment] Spent the day in the park yesterday and lots of new hangers being installed. I talked to a guy replacing bolts on Shady Rock and saw at least four new ones being glued in.
Nov 2, 2018
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