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Northeast Face

California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area > Berkeley > Cragmont Park

Description

The Northeast face of Cragmont park offers several quality beginner routes, ranging from 5.5 to 5.10b.

The climbing is up a cracked slab, probably the best place that I've ever seen to bring beginners. There are 3 bolt top anchors on two different spots on the rock, and also a tree that would be good for an anchor on the far left side.

To set a top anchor, walk around to the top of the park past the basketball hoop. There is a rock wall that has a clearing with a path leading downhill in the middle. Follow this down 20 feet to bolts headed off the left of the rock.

Getting There

Approach time: 1 minute. 

Head down the trail to the left of the bathrooms. The rock is about 100 feet downhill on the right side of the path, where the top anchors are easily seen.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
The Seam
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 26
Southeast Crack (C6)
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
Face
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 134
Cragmont Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 139
Cragmont Undercling
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 110
Senior
TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 30
Independence
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Seam
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Southeast Crack (C6)
 26
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
Face
 84
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Cragmont Crack
 134
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Cragmont Undercling
 139
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Senior
 110
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Independence
 30
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dick Leonard rappelling off the 5.8 face.
[Hide Photo] Dick Leonard rappelling off the 5.8 face.