Description

Dry Creek Sea Crag has climbing on rock very similar to Mickey's Beach. The climbing is different in nature though; there are more crack climbs, the holds tend to be sharper, and there are fewer sustained quality routes.Like Mickey's Beach, the ocean view is spectacular. Unlike Mickey's Beach, you're not likely to see any naked people here... as a matter of fact, you're not likely to see anyone else at all!

Getting There

To reach Dry Creek Sea Crag, head north on 101 from easentially anywhere in the bay area. Upon reaching the town of Petaluma, take the East Washington exit. Go left and drive west, over the freeway. When Washington intersects highway 116, it turns into Bodega Avenue. Keep on Bodega for about 25 miles, and it will become highway 1 - northbound. Keep on highway 1, through Bodega Bay, and into Jenner. At the intersection of hwy 116 (same highway as in Petaluma, it just winds a LOT) and hwy 1, you have 6.2 miles until you hit the Vista Trail parking lot on your left, park there.Hike out of the parking lot just left of the outhouse, heading north. The trail wonders slightly downhill, goes over an old fence, crosses a dry creek bed (thus the name) and then 30 feet after, splits. Take the left fork of the trail, and proceed straight downhill. The trail will lead to a huge rock against the ocean. The trail cuts sharply left at the base of the rock. Its really steep and sucks to walk down. Instead climb up the rock (easy 3rd class) and walk over the left shoulder of the rock. All the climbing will be to your right once you've reached the other side of the rock.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sea Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Wide Crack
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Sport Wall Face
Sport, TR
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Judge Dredd
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Jury Duty
Trad, Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wide Crack Main Rock
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Sport Wall Face Main Rock
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Judge Dredd Main Rock
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Jury Duty Main Rock
 4
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Trad, Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Sea Crag »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Dry Creek Is named by the USGS topo map, the point just above the crag is the dry creek benchmark Mar 5, 2003
the wine country rock book is the book to get for this area. Apr 7, 2005
OyeMike
Murphy, Idaho
OyeMike   Murphy, Idaho
Maybe not the very best climbing but fun and lots of space and isolation on a nice section of the Cali coast.
We happened to hit it on a sunny windless day which was unbelivable for the region.

NOTES: Take water,,,ummmmm extra water.

Take the ripe pineapple out of the haul bag before you let it
free tumble down the scree to the beach. Especially if
you dont bring extra water to rinse everything.

Serious Note:

Keep an egress in mind if the surf is big.

Normally cool to cold and foggy. Dec 23, 2007
Chris Summit
Santa Rosa, Nor Cal
Chris Summit   Santa Rosa, Nor Cal
maybe not the very best climbing - wtf? - Judge Dredd is the best 5.13 on the Sonoma Coast and one of the best on the entire Pacific Coast of North America. Nov 11, 2009
David Engel
Santa Rosa, CA
David Engel   Santa Rosa, CA
There are no climbs here to talk about. ;-) Jul 30, 2017
I'm looking to do some top roping here. Are there established bolts to create some cordelette anchors for top rope routes? Aug 31, 2017
Adra
Rohnert Park, CA
Adra   Rohnert Park, CA
Hi Ryuta - It is possible to set up a few top ropes here, although most of the climbs require leading to get to the anchors. When you are coming down the final section of the approach trail, it is possible to cut over to the right to find the anchors to the Red Slab. There are three sets of two bolt anchors there that you can safely access for setting up topropes. Alternatively, you could also climb the 5.6 gully on the Main Wall to set up a top rope as well. There is a two bolt anchor with chains that was in good shape and another two bolt anchor that looked pretty rusty. Hope that helps! Sep 10, 2017
Trails from the outhouse to the fence are a little hidden as the main trail down seems to come from the turnout just to the north of the Vista Point parking lot. Apr 2, 2018