A large 400 foot tall Yosemite-like dome made of solid granite sits above Herring Reservoir. There is enough of this large slab for everyone.
There are many multipitch climbing opportunities here, many trad, many mixed, and also some other sport routes around in the area. There are also more things to boulder on than anywhere in the area except perhaps Donner Summit.
This is a great place for an more advanced climber to bring a beginner to learn multipitch climbing, as there are routes starting out at only 5.0. Climbs up to 5.11 exist, with the potential for many other tough climbs that need to be developed in rocks surrounding Herring Dome.
Access to the main rock is unrestricted, though you will probably want a high clearance vehicle to get to Pinecrest Peak. A regular vehicle will make it to the approach to the base, though it might be slow going for the last several miles. Descending off the rock is a fairly simple downclimb walking around the face of the rock in a talus field.
There is also an excellent campground that is free located on Herring Creek Drive, though you will need a fire permit, a shovel and a bucket to enjoy a fire. A fire permit can be obtained during the day at one of many local ranger stations located along highway 108. One is located in Cold Springs, another is located on Sonora Pass proper. Camping in the area is primarily unrestricted if you don't feel like camping in a campground, as most of the area is located on Stanislaus National Forest land (you can check their website for the latest information).
There are several ways of approaching Herring Creek Dome, none of which are a simple walk in the park.
This area is within 3 hours drive from the bay area, 35 miles or so past the Table Mountain area.
From the 99, Head East on Highway 108 through the town of Jamestown, and also through the town of Sonora. Keep on Highway 108, another 27 miles to the town of Cold Springs. Keep heading up highway 108 to the town of Strawberry, another 4.7 miles past Cold Springs
Approach 1:
This will take you to the base of Herring Creek Dome.
For access to the base of Herring Creek Dome, turn right off highway 108 2.5 miles past the city of Strawberry on Herring Creek Drive. Head uphill on this paved road 2.8 miles to forest road 4n27 Turn right on 4n27 which is a very rough dirt road. Drive approximately 1.2 miles to a fork in the dirt road. Take the left fork and proceed about 0.2 miles to the locked gate which is just before a bridge, which is where you should park. There is a camping area at the end of the road before the locked gate. No services, but plenty of space to camp, and a very nice creek. Also, if you backtrack 0.2 miles and take the right at the fork in 4n27, it leads to another camping area in about 1/2 mile.
Cross the bridge, and proceed approximately 100 yards. Turn left on a single track trail and head upstream on the path about 3/4 of a mile until the dome becomes visible on the right. Turn right and hike the climbers trail towards the dome.
Approach #2:
This will take you to Pinecrest Peak, which is located 400 feet above the Herring Creek Dome.
For access to the base of Herring Creek Dome, turn right off highway 108 2.5 miles past the city of Strawberry on Herring Creek Drive. Head uphill on this paved road until it becomes a fairly wide gravel road. There will be signs pointing you to Pinecrest Peak and the campground (with a right arrow), which you should follow. Continue on Herring Creek drive past the campground, which will be located on the left side of the road.
The road will have narrowed by now, but continue on the main road. Eventually, you will see a sign stating "Pinecrest Peak" and a right arrow where the road switches back uphill. Take this switchback, and head uphill along a narrow rugged road. A high-clearance vehicle becomes mandatory now, as the road is considerably more bumpy. Continue uphill, following the other sign which will tell you to take a right (?) to head up to Pinecrest Peak. You know you are there when the road ends into a breathtaking rightward view, and a wooden sign decreeing "Pinecrest Peak."
Park here, and walk 50 yards out to the edge of the cliff, where Herring Creek Dome will be visible 400 feet or so below you.
Access to the main dome is achieved by heading left around the main cliff bands into the trees and down into the talus field.
Access to the Pinecliff Peak areas are either reached from below by the same technique, or by rappelling down to the bolted climbs in the lower sections of the main cliff band that is below the parking area.
Brad Young Feb 19, 2005
May 9, 2005
Twain Harte, CA
By my estimate, about one third of the bolts on the dome are on routes which are modern enough that they were established with stainless steel bolts.
I've now replaced every other bolt with A.S.C.A. 1/2 inch stainless bolts.
A few more details:
- Yes, there are 1/2 inch stainless bolts on some easy slab routes or easy sections of routes. Call this massive overkill. I used what A.S.C.A. provides and what their donors allow (their donors equals you, the climbing public - give often and generously). And big modern bolts are better than some of the rusty crap bolts that were previously on those sections.
- I carefully used the words "climbing bolts" above and that may seem odd. I used the phrase because I am aware of four bolts on the dome that are not modern and/or which are not stainless steel. Two of these are 5/16 inch buttonhead bolts which I originally placed at the tops of the first pitches of Sea of Tranquility and Geronimo's Cadillac. I left these "bits of history" at these belays as third bolts deliberately in each case. The other two bolts at each belay station are, in each case, A.S.C.A. 1/2 inch stainless.
- The other two non-modern bolts are just plain weird. I found these on top of the north face of the dome, 15 feet west from the top of the route Bushstreet. These bolts were far enough away from the top of that route, that they don't seem to have been added as a top anchor for it (there's an easy and good gear anchor right at the top of the second/last pitch). And these two bolts are oriented toward the cliff face below them and not toward the top of Bushstreet 15 feet away. Add in the fact that both are 9/16 inch (!!) carbon steel sleeve bolts with carbon steel hangers. I rapped a short way down the face below these bolts (and later checked it out from below) and there are no climbing routes, no evidence of climbing efforts, and, in my opinion, absolutely no free climbing possibilities below them (90 or 100 foot, vertical to overhanging and blank face below). All I can think is that these were placed by people out to "sport" rappel? That's a guess, but I can't think of anything else.
- Therefore, none of the four "exception" bolts is, by my estimate at least, used for climbing. They aren't climbing bolts.
- For those interested in more detail (and a few photos), try the Sonora Pass Climbing Web Site. Here's a link:
sonorapassclimbing.com/sph/… Oct 5, 2022
Colorado