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Herring Creek Dome Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 7,774 ft | 2,370 m |
| GPS: |
38.2367, -119.9319 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 19,783 total · 73/month | |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Oct 2, 2002 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
A large 400 foot tall Yosemite-like dome made of solid granite sits above Herring Reservoir. There is enough of this large slab for everyone.
There are many multipitch climbing opportunities here, many trad, many mixed, and also some other sport routes around in the area. There are also more things to boulder on than anywhere in the area except perhaps Donner Summit.
This is a great place for an more advanced climber to bring a beginner to learn multipitch climbing, as there are routes starting out at only 5.0. Climbs up to 5.11 exist, with the potential for many other tough climbs that need to be developed in rocks surrounding Herring Dome.
Access to the main rock is unrestricted, though you will probably want a high clearance vehicle to get to Pinecrest Peak. A regular vehicle will make it to the approach to the base, though it might be slow going for the last several miles. Descending off the rock is a fairly simple downclimb walking around the face of the rock in a talus field.
There is also an excellent campground that is free located on Herring Creek Drive, though you will need a fire permit, a shovel and a bucket to enjoy a fire. A fire permit can be obtained during the day at one of many local ranger stations located along highway 108. One is located in Cold Springs, another is located on Sonora Pass proper. Camping in the area is primarily unrestricted if you don't feel like camping in a campground, as most of the area is located on Stanislaus National Forest land (you can check their website for the latest information).
There are many multipitch climbing opportunities here, many trad, many mixed, and also some other sport routes around in the area. There are also more things to boulder on than anywhere in the area except perhaps Donner Summit.
This is a great place for an more advanced climber to bring a beginner to learn multipitch climbing, as there are routes starting out at only 5.0. Climbs up to 5.11 exist, with the potential for many other tough climbs that need to be developed in rocks surrounding Herring Dome.
Access to the main rock is unrestricted, though you will probably want a high clearance vehicle to get to Pinecrest Peak. A regular vehicle will make it to the approach to the base, though it might be slow going for the last several miles. Descending off the rock is a fairly simple downclimb walking around the face of the rock in a talus field.
There is also an excellent campground that is free located on Herring Creek Drive, though you will need a fire permit, a shovel and a bucket to enjoy a fire. A fire permit can be obtained during the day at one of many local ranger stations located along highway 108. One is located in Cold Springs, another is located on Sonora Pass proper. Camping in the area is primarily unrestricted if you don't feel like camping in a campground, as most of the area is located on Stanislaus National Forest land (you can check their website for the latest information).
Getting There
There are several ways of approaching Herring Creek Dome, none of which are a simple walk in the park.
This area is within 3 hours drive from the bay area, 35 miles or so past the Table Mountain area.
From the 99, Head East on Highway 108 through the town of Jamestown, and also through the town of Sonora. Keep on Highway 108, another 27 miles to the town of Cold Springs. Keep heading up highway 108 to the town of Strawberry, another 4.7 miles past Cold Springs
Approach 1:
This will take you to the base of Herring Creek Dome.
For access to the base of Herring Creek Dome, turn right off highway 108 2.5 miles past the city of Strawberry on Herring Creek Drive. Head uphill on this paved road 2.8 miles to forest road 4n27 Turn right on 4n27 which is a very rough dirt road. Drive approximately 1.2 miles to a fork in the dirt road. Take the left fork and proceed about 0.2 miles to the locked gate which is just before a bridge, which is where you should park. There is a camping area at the end of the road before the locked gate. No services, but plenty of space to camp, and a very nice creek. Also, if you backtrack 0.2 miles and take the right at the fork in 4n27, it leads to another camping area in about 1/2 mile.
Cross the bridge, and proceed approximately 100 yards. Turn left on a single track trail and head upstream on the path about 3/4 of a mile until the dome becomes visible on the right. Turn right and hike the climbers trail towards the dome.
Approach #2:
This will take you to Pinecrest Peak, which is located 400 feet above the Herring Creek Dome.
For access to the base of Herring Creek Dome, turn right off highway 108 2.5 miles past the city of Strawberry on Herring Creek Drive. Head uphill on this paved road until it becomes a fairly wide gravel road. There will be signs pointing you to Pinecrest Peak and the campground (with a right arrow), which you should follow. Continue on Herring Creek drive past the campground, which will be located on the left side of the road.
The road will have narrowed by now, but continue on the main road. Eventually, you will see a sign stating "Pinecrest Peak" and a right arrow where the road switches back uphill. Take this switchback, and head uphill along a narrow rugged road. A high-clearance vehicle becomes mandatory now, as the road is considerably more bumpy. Continue uphill, following the other sign which will tell you to take a right (?) to head up to Pinecrest Peak. You know you are there when the road ends into a breathtaking rightward view, and a wooden sign decreeing "Pinecrest Peak."
Park here, and walk 50 yards out to the edge of the cliff, where Herring Creek Dome will be visible 400 feet or so below you.
Access to the main dome is achieved by heading left around the main cliff bands into the trees and down into the talus field.
Access to the Pinecliff Peak areas are either reached from below by the same technique, or by rappelling down to the bolted climbs in the lower sections of the main cliff band that is below the parking area.
This area is within 3 hours drive from the bay area, 35 miles or so past the Table Mountain area.
From the 99, Head East on Highway 108 through the town of Jamestown, and also through the town of Sonora. Keep on Highway 108, another 27 miles to the town of Cold Springs. Keep heading up highway 108 to the town of Strawberry, another 4.7 miles past Cold Springs
Approach 1:
This will take you to the base of Herring Creek Dome.
For access to the base of Herring Creek Dome, turn right off highway 108 2.5 miles past the city of Strawberry on Herring Creek Drive. Head uphill on this paved road 2.8 miles to forest road 4n27 Turn right on 4n27 which is a very rough dirt road. Drive approximately 1.2 miles to a fork in the dirt road. Take the left fork and proceed about 0.2 miles to the locked gate which is just before a bridge, which is where you should park. There is a camping area at the end of the road before the locked gate. No services, but plenty of space to camp, and a very nice creek. Also, if you backtrack 0.2 miles and take the right at the fork in 4n27, it leads to another camping area in about 1/2 mile.
Cross the bridge, and proceed approximately 100 yards. Turn left on a single track trail and head upstream on the path about 3/4 of a mile until the dome becomes visible on the right. Turn right and hike the climbers trail towards the dome.
Approach #2:
This will take you to Pinecrest Peak, which is located 400 feet above the Herring Creek Dome.
For access to the base of Herring Creek Dome, turn right off highway 108 2.5 miles past the city of Strawberry on Herring Creek Drive. Head uphill on this paved road until it becomes a fairly wide gravel road. There will be signs pointing you to Pinecrest Peak and the campground (with a right arrow), which you should follow. Continue on Herring Creek drive past the campground, which will be located on the left side of the road.
The road will have narrowed by now, but continue on the main road. Eventually, you will see a sign stating "Pinecrest Peak" and a right arrow where the road switches back uphill. Take this switchback, and head uphill along a narrow rugged road. A high-clearance vehicle becomes mandatory now, as the road is considerably more bumpy. Continue uphill, following the other sign which will tell you to take a right (?) to head up to Pinecrest Peak. You know you are there when the road ends into a breathtaking rightward view, and a wooden sign decreeing "Pinecrest Peak."
Park here, and walk 50 yards out to the edge of the cliff, where Herring Creek Dome will be visible 400 feet or so below you.
Access to the main dome is achieved by heading left around the main cliff bands into the trees and down into the talus field.
Access to the Pinecliff Peak areas are either reached from below by the same technique, or by rappelling down to the bolted climbs in the lower sections of the main cliff band that is below the parking area.
Classic Climbing Routes at Herring Creek Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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