PRINT: Rock Climbing in Beaver Street Wall, San Francisco Bay Area

Beaver Street Wall

California > San Francisco B… > San Francisco

Description

AREA CLOSURE: The park where the Beaver Street Wall base area is located is currently closed due to rockfall in Spring 2023. It is not currently known when the park will reopen as of June 2023 there is still uncleaned rockfall near the base of the climbs.

Located in the city of San Francisco, this area is part of the San Francisco Parks system, so access is not a concern. You're in San Francisco, so the weather can be wonderful, but is most likely going to be foggy and windy.

This small toprope area holds some interesting climbing on very glasslike rock, that can be quite tough on the hands, and in places almost impossible to smear. On the harder routes, if you can find it a grip, finger hold, nub, anything, you'll probably need it. This crag contains some great balancy moves, despite it's limited number of climbs.

There are chains connected to the fence above to set up an anchor, which can be accessed by walking south on Beaver Street, taking the alley to the right, and following the path behind the tennis courts up the backside of the wall. Do not climb the part of the wall facing the street (the one with the No Climbing sign), the neighbors have complained about rocks falling onto the sidewalk and hitting cars.

Getting There

1. Google Map Beaver Street. Where it hits 15th, it looks like an L. Right at the corner of that L, there is a staircase that goes up between two houses. That staircase leads to Flint St. You can park right there on Flint. Or on Beaver. Or hell, right in the park where the base of the cliff is if you want.

2. Up at the top of the staircase at the dead-end on Flint St, there are some tennis courts. There is an obvious trail right there. Follow the trail up and to the right, alongside the fence. Follow the fence. At the top, there is another fence running perpendicular to the one you just followed. That's the fence at the top of the cliff.

3. There is a section of fence that has a double fence. Like a newer, shinier fence installed. That is where the anchor is.

4. There are some chains. I don't know if they are trustworthy or not. You can also build an anchor off the newer fence's cross member.

5. There is STILL a nut stuck in the lower part of the climb. It looks like it's jammed in there pretty hard.

6. You DO NOT need a permit. We called the number on the sign and they said they are taking the sign down, as it was put up by some other department who has a stick up their bum. No permit needed. Climb to your heart's content.

Thanks to FourT6and2 ... for this recent beta.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 85 ● The Crack TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 80 ● Crack Direct TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R 17 ● Right of Direct Start TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 9 ● Dawn Juan TR
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 1 ● Dawn Juan Direct TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R 4 ● Bolt Route TR

● The Crack

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 TR

● Crack Direct

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R TR

● Right of Direct Start

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R TR

● Dawn Juan

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR

● Dawn Juan Direct

5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR

● Bolt Route

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Almost at the top.

Apparently you are supposed to have a permit to climb here now. Didn't want to risk a ticket on a Sunday, so we opted out. Has anyone been ticketed or successfully gotten a permit?

Spicy lead on the last day of 2019! Horrible gear placements :)

Chains at the top fixed to the fence piling seem solid. There are two fences which you can get between and then crawl under the outermost to reach the cliff edge. I passed a cordalette through the…

My buddy Julia, crushing it.

Excellent view of the city from the top of Beaver Street Wall. Here we are setting up the toprope.

The mirror surface on the beaver street wall

Rockfall from Spring 2023 climber's right of the Beaver Street Wall climbs. Used with permission from Peter Monks.

Beaver Street Wall base area closed due to rockfall. Photo used with permission from Peter Monks.

Staircase on De Forest to access anchor point at the top of the climb, via the tennis courts

Henry trying to slide UP the wall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Noah Gauss

I was just back in the city visiting some friends for a couple of days and stopped by Beaver St. to do a little top roping. I had put the chains up above the main crack system about seven or eight years ago and was curious to see how they were holding up. I wish I had a little extra time to do some minor maintainance, but I was only going to be in town until the next morning. The chains themselves still look bomber, but the last links are definately getting pretty worn from repeated top roping. If any one would want to throw couple of beefy quick links one link up from the end of the chains, it would ease my mind. I was surprised to see this wall given attention in a recent guide, and now here. It is pretty tiny, but a cool little secret spot in the middle of town. If this recognition leads to a little more trafic, it would be awesome to know that the chains got tuned up a little. Thanks. Jul 22, 2002

Anonymous Coward

I used to climb the Bev daily back in 1992-93 and loved the place! Since I've moved far from the Bay area I have never found a better easier to get to place to have a bit of fun. If you're in SF and using a gym instad of this place you're nuts. Nov 20, 2002

Victor K
Denver, CO

If you're not comfortable with the 20 ft scramble and traverse over potentially slick grass and mud, the chains can be reached via a staircase and walk that ascend toward the Randall Museum about 5 or 6 houses south from Beaver Street. Just bear right as the Museum comes into view above the tennis courts. Jul 15, 2003

Karl Royer

This rock is worth the trip to climb, if only to see the rock. The polished parts, look very similar to the surface of a redwood coffee table, very beautiful and slick. Agree with the ratings both direct and face. Jul 16, 2003

Anonymous Coward

We had trouble finding the wall with the directions listed. Try these: 101 North, and exit on the Duboce Ave / Mission St exit. Go straight on Duboce Ave where it starts as the freeway ends. Go up a few blocks, and take a soft left onto Market st. Take a right on to Noe St. Follow it up hill and take a slight jog right and continue up hill. Follow the street as it curves right and levels out. Park. The enterance to wall is on the left hand, or uphill, side of the street through a narrow alley which opens onto a couple sets of swings and a playground.

Also, anyone who wants to lead these climbs needs to bring 3-4 micro-nuts and a variety of medium sized nuts. I used Trango #1 brass nuts. I found no good cam placements on the routes. You could maybe use some micro-cams or micro-TCU's. Have fun, it's a cool wall Jun 22, 2004

Savioso

The place still surprises me, you can go from being there a few days a week and getting it dialed, to coming back after a while and it will feel hard. I lead it not to long ago, it was proud because of the pro, and the fact that they will pop. I felt super safe when you reach the bolt(no hanger)to the right of the climb and you can use a stopper to protect it. Nov 2, 2004

Paul Rezucha
Alameda

I finally took the time to check out this little climbing wall just to see what it looks like. The AC directions are a little misleading as AC forgot to mention the left turn onto Beaver Street. After you turn right onto Noe Street from Market Street you take your first left turn on Beaver Street. Follow Beaver Street for a full block and cross Castro Street (I saw a sign that said Divisadero Street which is what Castro Street turns into a few blocks to the north). Continue up the steep Beaver Street for a short block. Beaver Street makes a sharp right hand turn at the top of the hill and then levels out. Park anywhere here. The little alleyway is on the left-hand side. You will see the wall's profile on the left. If you look at the map on MP, it is right on! Exactly where the alleyway is. Aug 9, 2009

Kyle Wills
Whidbey Island, WA

Definitely a neat little spot. Took some neophyte climbers who found the crack direct route challenging but fun. It is worth seeing the crazy geology at work, but definitely be aware of the loose gravel sized bits that will perpetually rain down if there is anyone topping out or setting the anchor. Oct 9, 2010

Kyle Wills
Whidbey Island, WA

Also, as I am sure goes for any Bay Area spot, bring a couple of layers, the crack sees no sunlight in the afternoon. Oct 9, 2010

nono	[Hide Comment] What kind of rock is this? Nov 28, 2010

Brian Snider
NorCal

It's chert, and it seems that a large flake halfway up the 5.6 finish has broken off. Its a bit more difficult, not sure if its a full grade though. The piece was about the size of a laptop and made for a nice right foot hold.

Apr 29, 2011

Nate Syndicate

Does anyone know what the projects / test pieces to the far right of the main routes are? There are some OLD and new bolts. Sep 18, 2012

Teresa Tarn
Boulder, CO

It's a bit of an adventure finding Beaver Street Wall. After exiting the 101, wandering around the Castro, going up a random hill into a quiet residential area, exiting our car, and walking up a tiny trail slightly hidden between two houses, my friends and I found ourselves at the little outdoor park where Beaver Street Wall lies. The wall's glassy surface provided the most challenge of the day, camouflaging many solid footholds. There's a playground (with a killer spinning merry-go-round thing) that provides plenty of distraction for those who are waiting to get on the ropes. We hardly got any sun all day so I agree with the poster above about bringing layers. Overall, Beaver Street Wall a great place to climb and chill out while in the city. Nov 4, 2012

Logan Swartz
San Diego, CA

This is the slickest wall you will probably ever climb. It is like polished table top marble, literally. It is a fault which sheared up which is what polished it. There was supposedly another one across the way but it was destroyed to make houses.

Cool and unique spot being right in the middle of San Francisco. Apr 9, 2013

David Tsai

Just dropped by with some friends today to go climb this - really cool location. I wish I had more knowledge about how to help fix up the anchors up top - perhaps someone with more experience could double check the chains that are attached to the giant concrete "block" near the fence?

This was a very, very slick surface - it's actually pretty horrifying at first when you realize you have no purchase on the face, your feet will literally slide off no matter how much you try to smear. Then again, I'm a beginner.

Overall, it was a ton of fun though, totally helped me learn to be more precise and patient. Oct 7, 2013

Jason Stewart
Santa Rosa, California

Showed up here to climb with a buddy from out of town, and discovered that you're now required to get a permit to climb here. There is a phone number to call on the sign. We called it and the permitting department had no idea what we were talking about.

Good luck. Jun 13, 2014

Justin Driemeyer
San Carlos, California

I called the permit office today and was directed over to James Wheedler who said the sign was put up prematurely. He said they are concerned about protecting the geologic feature in the wake of the growth of climbing as a sport in the last several years so are looking to put some permitting process in place to help do so and suggested one format they are looking into is a self service process - answer some questions online and get a permit you can print, I suggested a basic self-service paper register, like a wilderness permit for day hiking. But since no process is in place yet he said go ahead and climb for the time being. That said, if you have input I recommend you provide it - because while I would be OK with a self-service permit system that isn't gated on office hours, perhaps others have a different viewpoint, and perhaps the access fund or such have some data about less bureaucratic ways to address the concerns of the parks department. Jul 7, 2014

crimsonraen

I just climbed here for the first time, and this wall is GORGEOUS! Damn! Super cool to look at, definitely the most aesthetically pleasing wall I've ever climbed. Also, definitely the hardest to smear on. ;)

So there are no longer any bolts on the wall, as they've all been chopped off. Well, there are some stubs sticking out. It would be best to just stick with top roping here, to preserve the awesome beauty of the wall. (And so climbers don't lose access to it) Also, it shouldn't be trad lead either, just so you don't break pieces off if you fall. The wall is pretty crumbly in places, sort of like cement. Let's try to preserve this great spot for climbing!

Oh, and yeah, the chains could use some new quick-links on 'em. They're good enough for now, but you should set a cordalette or slings on them, and rappel instead of lower. :) Sep 22, 2015

Roadsoda XL
San Francisco

Fun area I went out there late in the day (cold) with my girlfriend and it was rad. Gotta go back and hit it again when I have my shoes. There's a nut someone lost in the first traverse I tried to rescue, but didn't have any luck. I used the playground to teach her a bit of ascending tech using a prussik.

At the end of beaver st there's a slightly hidden staircase that takes you to the tennis court and trail to the top. Dec 15, 2015

Tim Sherry
Portland, OR

I come here everytime I'm in town for AGU. Callen Bentley just posted a gorgeous GigaPan of the wall. Probably going to be the best detail if you're scoping... gigapan.com/gigapans/182379

Just got word that there is a sign at the playground prohibiting climbing. Contacted Callen to see if he has a photo. Dec 18, 2015

FourT6and2 ...

Went here today to scope it out. Had to leave early because it got too dark to keep climbing.

Better directions:

1. Google Map Beaver Street. Where it hits 15th, it looks like an L. Right at the corner of that L, there is a staircase that goes up between two houses. That staircase leads to Flint St. You can park right there on Flint. Or on Beaver. Or hell, right in the park where the base of the cliff is if you want.

2. Up at the top of the staircase at the dead-end on Flint St, there are some tennis courts. There is an obvious trail right there. Follow the trail up and to the right, alongside the fence. Follow the fence. At the top, there is another fence running perpendicular to the one you just followed. That's the fence at the top of the cliff.

3. There is a section of fence that has a double fence. Like a newer, shinier fence installed. That is where the anchor is.

4. There are some chains. I don't know if they are trustworthy or not. You can also build an anchor off the newer fence's cross member.

5. There is STILL a nut stuck in the lower part of the climb. It looks like it's jammed in there pretty hard.

6. You DO NOT need a permit. We called the number on the sign and they said they are taking the sign down, as it was put up by some other department who has a stick up their bum. No permit needed. Climb to your heart's content. Feb 10, 2016

Charlie Martz
Fort Collins

As of August 2018 the chains are rusty but seem to be sturdy. Confidently top roped and rappeled. Would recommend something longer than a set of draws to get the rope over the edge, otherwise there is a lot of drag.
The beta from FourT6 is all A+ Aug 6, 2018

David Dentry
Morrison, CO

After a day at the zoo we stopped at this rock to climb a bit. It's fun how it's right in the middle of the city and a crazy climb. As others have said (and I didn't really believe!) the rock is as polished as glass and unclimbable. The crack gives some options but it wasn't ant an easy climb at all for me.

Nice playground next to the rock and it's an easy, 3 minute walk up the street and then up the stairs and hill to rig an anchor.

The chains at the top have surface rust but seem very sturdy. Dec 27, 2018

Dana D
San Francisco

Pulled out a grapefruit-sized hold today a few moves below the anchor chains. Made the 5.7 finish maybe half a grade harder. Jan 12, 2020

Perry Doig
San Francisco, CA

Last climbed this at night right before CoVid lockdown began. There was a large amount of dirt/rockfall from the lip about 20ft to the left of the exit from the main crack. People, please watch your stance when building/cleaning anchors here, and please make sure you use a PAS when doing so. The rim of the wall is very unstable.
In other news, I finally found my balls and led this on the last day of 2019. If anyone is interested in the gear, it's as follows. Red #4 BD nut, yellow totem, black #5 BD nut, black totem (only one lobe loaded), green totem, #4 camalot. Some of these placements were less than confidence inspiring, so have a lot of faith in your climbing. As said before, the rock is somewhat brittle, so it added an extra spice factor to the lead. Such a great way to close out 2019!!! May 16, 2020

Ellen Perfect
California

It's still closed as of Mid July 2023 Jul 15, 2023