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Jet Stream Wall
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (10) Pine Creek Canyon
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
I recently came across some routes on this wall, I don't know who did them or when they were first done, but have taken the liberty of writing descriptions and giving them names. Anyone who knows the real names should feel free to correct what I write here.This wall is high, shady, and very exposed to winds, making it perfect for warmer weather. The rock is superb, with long cracklines, elegant, clean cut corners and none of the flakiness so common in Red Rocks.
Getting There
This wall is the north face of Juniper Peak, considering the location it has a very reasonable approach. Go up the Olive Oil descent gully, this is the first gully to the north of Rose Tower. From the saddle at the top of the gully get onto the ridge on the left (south) and follow it to a tower, follow ledges around the left side of the tower and continue to the saddle at the top of the Olive Oil approach gully. Cross the top of the gully and pick up a trail which heads west staying fairly close to the base of the wall. This leads across to the base of the Jet Stream Wall. 1hr 10 mins total. A steep but surprisingly straightforward approach with some amazing views.
[Hide Photo] The exposed and beautiful approch to Jet Stream Wall
[Hide Photo] 4 - Go to the left of the slanted boulder. There is a fixed rope (as of April 2016). You ultimately want to go to the RIGHT of that large tower. This section around the tower is VERY exposed, bu…
[Hide Photo] 3 - Follow this ridge to the tower. Exposed, but nothing serious.
[Hide Photo] 2 - When you get to the top of the gully DO NOT go down the other side. Instead, look to your left and scramble up this feature to gain the ridge.
[Hide Photo] 1 - the Olive Oil gully is the vegetated gully in the center of the photo. There's a well traveled trail going up this. It's steep and requires some scrambling, but it's not as loose as I was led…
[Hide Photo] This is the beautiful and amazing Jet Stream Wall
[Hide Comment] Though the approach described above up the Olive Oil descent gully is no doubt faster, it's also reasonable to get to/from this wall using the 3rd class gully down to its right, from the Challenger Wall/Adventure Punks area.
Nov 16, 2009
[Hide Comment] I would definitely suggest the Olive Oil approach. While steep, it is much shorter and more straightforward than coming up by Challenger. Additionally, the routes on the Jet Stream Wall only require a light rack and this the gully is really not that bad.
Nov 13, 2013
...is one tenth of a mile shorter. ...can be reasonably approached via the Pine Creek TH or the Oak Creek TH. ...has more elevation gain/loss, in both directions. ...is a slog. ...bakes in the morning sun. ...traverses a spectacular ridge. ...is probably the fastest way.
The south fork of Pine Creek Canyon (via Challenger):
...is one tenth of a mile longer. ...requires parking at the Pine Creek TH. ...has no unnecessary elevation gain/loss. ...requires a substantial amount of boulder hopping and route finding. ...stays shaded. ...follows a scenic, riparian canyon. ...is probably a tad slower.
Dec 27, 2016
[Hide Comment] Not sure how the Olive Oil descent gully would be faster?
My partner and I recently did Tooth or Consequences. Upon arriving, another party happened to plan on doing Tooth as well - they said it took them 2h10min to get there via the Olive Oil descent gully approach, complaining it was more involved than they expected, meanwhile we took ~an hour less via the Challenger approach which was very straightforward and honestly not a bad amount of boulder hopping.
After the climb, we decided to check out the Olive Oil descent gully option. It involves an additional 500ft(+?) of gain, and 500ft of loss, which if it’s only 1/10 of a mile less in distance (this I didn’t measure personally), I’m not sure how the math adds up to it being a faster way?
Edit 03/18/2022: I think while your experience and that of Thomas Gilmore, both experienced guides, may lend itself to the Olive Oil way being faster, I will say it's still important to retain the information that reflects other people's experiences, i.e. perhaps experiences closer to that of an average party of climbers. The people climbing that day were experienced. My partner and I, who went down that approach, also were experienced; and yet we found it not to be faster.
Regardless, Josh Janes, I would appreciate if you didn't change my comment to 'temporary', especially without even informing me. I changed it back to Beta, for perhaps those who don't have your skillset and therefore may not have the same experience as yourself and may not share your opinion.
Feb 24, 2022
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
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The Dungeon, NM
Tucson, AZ
...is one tenth of a mile shorter.
...can be reasonably approached via the Pine Creek TH or the Oak Creek TH.
...has more elevation gain/loss, in both directions.
...is a slog.
...bakes in the morning sun.
...traverses a spectacular ridge.
...is probably the fastest way.
The south fork of Pine Creek Canyon (via Challenger):
...is one tenth of a mile longer.
...requires parking at the Pine Creek TH.
...has no unnecessary elevation gain/loss.
...requires a substantial amount of boulder hopping and route finding.
...stays shaded.
...follows a scenic, riparian canyon.
...is probably a tad slower. Dec 27, 2016
Bishop, CA
My partner and I recently did Tooth or Consequences. Upon arriving, another party happened to plan on doing Tooth as well - they said it took them 2h10min to get there via the Olive Oil descent gully approach, complaining it was more involved than they expected, meanwhile we took ~an hour less via the Challenger approach which was very straightforward and honestly not a bad amount of boulder hopping.
After the climb, we decided to check out the Olive Oil descent gully option. It involves an additional 500ft(+?) of gain, and 500ft of loss, which if it’s only 1/10 of a mile less in distance (this I didn’t measure personally), I’m not sure how the math adds up to it being a faster way?
Edit 03/18/2022: I think while your experience and that of Thomas Gilmore, both experienced guides, may lend itself to the Olive Oil way being faster, I will say it's still important to retain the information that reflects other people's experiences, i.e. perhaps experiences closer to that of an average party of climbers. The people climbing that day were experienced. My partner and I, who went down that approach, also were experienced; and yet we found it not to be faster.
Regardless, Josh Janes, I would appreciate if you didn't change my comment to 'temporary', especially without even informing me. I changed it back to Beta, for perhaps those who don't have your skillset and therefore may not have the same experience as yourself and may not share your opinion. Feb 24, 2022