PRINT: Rock Climbing in Illusion Crags, Red Rocks

Illusion Crags

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (19) Southern Outcrops

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Several classic single pitch trad routes can be found here at Illusion Crags. The routes on the left side face almost south and the routes continue around to the main cliff that faces east. The routes on the left generally have walkoffs, and on the main face the routes usually feature rappel anchors - these are long pitches and two ropes may be required to rap. Most of the first ascents out here were by Joe Herbst and friends.

Getting There

There are two approaches to Illusion Crags. First is to approach as per Windy Canyon via the cutoff from Black Velvet Canyon Road. This may not be preferable due to a short, rugged section of dirt road.

The shorter approach is also a dirt road - this way is generally manageable with 2WD so long as you have some decent clearance. About a mile west of the BVC road turnoff from the highway (known as Late Night Trailhead), there is another turnoff on the right. Head off the highway to the north and follow the dirt road as it parallels the highway, heading west, into a stream bed. This stream bed features loose gravel and it's easy to get stuck in. After about a quarter mile from the highway, at a cairn, head north out of the stream bed then bear left when opportunities are presented. Stop at the small parking area that is closest to the Crags.

Once parked, head west, down into the wash and up across open desert to the cliff. There is a well marked trail if you can find it..

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 18 ● French Bulges Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 29 ● Arm Forces Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 10 ● Mirage Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 5 ● Corner's Inquest Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 9 ● Morph Out Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 14 ● Chameleon Pinnacle Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 4 ● David Copperhead Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 9 ● Who Deany Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 16 ● First Lady of Magic Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 3 ● Deez Guys Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 12 ● Con Jurors Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Magician's Hat Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 21 ● Slight of Hand Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 9 ● False Perception Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 4 ● Sensual Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 1 ● Sensible Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 1 ● Sendable Trad

● French Bulges

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Arm Forces

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Mirage

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Corner's Inquest

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad

● Morph Out

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Chameleon Pinnacle

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad

● David Copperhead

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Who Deany

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● First Lady of Magic

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Deez Guys

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Con Jurors

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Magician's Hat

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Slight of Hand

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● False Perception

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad

● Sensual

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Sensible

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Sendable

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Illusion Crags Annotated

Alcove of 5.7's down and right of main crag.

Drove this route in a front wheel drive Ford Escape

Illusion Crags. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV

The guidebooks are a little confusing regarding this area. Swain and Brock contradict each other on the location and ordering of routes (especially Spell Me). So far, I've found Swain to be more accurate. Nov 12, 2005

Cunning Linguist

Warm weather crag. French Bulges etc get a.m. sun, but the rest of the crag's way shady. For a full day hot times are the only times you want to be up here. Feb 6, 2012

Larry Graham
Boulder, CO

Spent the day at Illusion Crags. We tried taking the longer, more northern roads off of the Black Velvet road, which was fine until a VERY steep and rough down and up section which was almost certainly not going to work for our 2 wheel drive. So we turned back and tried the access from 160. There must have been some improvements to this access since the posting of this area here in MP because if you simply drive 0.9 miles on further from the Black Velvet turnoff to a gate on the right, (just before a sign that says "passing lane ahead") you have less than a mile of better dirt roads than the Black Velvet road to get to the parking spot!! After you turn off and go through the gate you will be basically paralleling 160 for about 0.3 miles. Then a sharp turn back to the right for a little over a tenth of a mile reaches a junction of several paths. Take the leftmost of these (going straight for the crags) and in another 0.3 miles you are at the parking. Probably 5 minutes. Quick, simple, and easy for any 2 wheel drive. If you are heading for Windy Peak you would then continue on for another 5 minutes or less for that parking area. Apr 22, 2015

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV

The desert floor between Chocolate Rocks and Illusion Crags burned earlier this year (2021). It looks like the fire ran up the hill toward Illusion Crags. The approach trail and routes on the left side of the cliff may be impacted. Oct 7, 2021