Buffalo Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Buffalo Wall
|Tatanka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 R|
|GPS:||36.144, -115.507 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||4,311 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||J. Thompson on May 29, 2005|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
DescriptionThe Buffalo wall sits majestically at the top of the north fork of Ice box canyon. The Buffalo wall and the Rainbow wall offer the only big wall aid experineces in Red Rock. The wall has 3 reported routes and a rumored 4th. All of the routes currently have 2 or fewer ascents. The Original Buffalo wall route is still waiting for a second ascent. The wall has a long and somewhat complicated approach lending to the reason it has so few ascent's. The Wall get's it's name from an image that appears in the varnish resembling, yep a Buffalo.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Getting ThereThere are 2 ways to approach the Buffalo wall.
The first, and traditional way, to approach is to go straight up Ice box Canyon. This involves some 5th class climbing but is the fastest.
Start at the Ice Box trailhead and follow the standard trail into the canyon. After the section of boulder hopping you will reach an impasse. Climb up the right hand side of the canyon taking the path of least resistance...there is sometimes a fixed rope here.
After this first step head back left into the main canyon again and continue up for aways. Whem you reach another impasse climb up the right hand canyon/gully, again weaving around a bit to find the path of least resistance. Climb this gully to it's top on a big terrace. scramble right a short distance until you can follow the terrace back left and back into the Main drainage. Pick your way up the main drainage, climbing 1 5th class section with a fixed rope, until you reach the base of the wall. Without packs this can be done in an hour and a half.
The second way to approach goes up a formation know as "2 Fools chute". See the picture on this page to locate "2FC".
Again start at the Ice box trailhead. Just before you head into the mouth of the canyon you will see 2FC on the right. Bushwack over to the start of the chute. go up 2FC with a bit of scrambling here and there. Near the top of the Chute look for the obvious place to head left on the big terrace, there are usually Cairns. Head left and follow the terrace all the way over to the the main drainage coming in just above the fifth class climbing mentioned in the other appraoch. There is a bit of scrambling and easy route finding involved. It helps to locate the obvious terrace from the parking lot. The terrace is a few hundred feet up on the nroth side of Ice box.
The descent from the top of the wall is actually very easy.
Head south west and locate the only spur ridge that goes all the way to the bottom of the canyon. There is an excellent climbers trail heading down this ridge. Do not get sucked into any drainage's! The trail stays on the ridge the entire way. The Rocky Gap road is in the bottom of the canyon and will lead you back to the loop road. Leaving a car back there is advised. High clearance only.
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