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Black Velvet Wall

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (16) Black Velvet Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

This is one of the premier walls in Red Rock. It features a wealth and variety of good climbing from the chimneys of Epinephrine to the balancy edges on Dream of Wild Turkeys.

Getting There

From the Black Velvet parking lot, follow the old bicycle road west for a few hundred yards. When the road turns left, continue west on a good trail. At the base of Whiskey Peak, the is a trail branching left to climb up to Frogland and nearby routes; continue west, climbing slightly before dropping into the deep wash on your immediate right. Follow the streambed up until it is blocked by a cliff band. On the left side of the wash trails lead up to a steep 3rd class route through the band. From the top of the cliff either go straight south toward routes near Dream of Wild Turkeys, or drop back to the streambed and continue upstream a short distance to the Epinephrine area.

Safety


LVMPD Search & Rescue responds to assist lost, stranded, and injured persons, to include fatalities relating to climbing and hiking accidents.  In Black Velvet Canyon, specifically on the route Epinephrine, LVMPD Search & Rescue has seen a substantial increase in rescues. We are asking for your assistance to reduce the number of these types of calls.

Climbers please prepare for a full day of climbing with overnight provisions. Know your limitations and have the ability to retreat from the climb.
There is an Emergency Cache at the top of the peak. The cache may include some overnight supplies, but is not to be relied upon. This is strictly for emergency situations. Instructions will be listed on the outside.

The “walk off” from where Epinephrine tops out has been geo referenced. This is a guide, you are still responsible for your actions. There are no rappels.
 
Geo Map Instructions:
A PDF map has been designed for use on your GPS-enabled mobile device and can be viewed on any PDF reader. When viewed in an installed mobile map application, each map is designed so that your location can be displayed on screen in real time. Geo referenced map applications allow you to navigate using your mobile device’s GPS even without cellular reception. There are a variety of geo referenced PDF apps available for Apple and Android devices. Consult the mobile app instructions for complete information on how to use.

Go into the  App Store, Download AVENZA MAPS.

  • Download the map onto your device prior to being in an area that may not have data coverage.
  • Ensure location services is enabled for the mobile map application being used on your mobile device.
  • In areas with no cellular reception, phone battery life significantly decreases. Putting your device in airplane mode will greatly improve battery life and not interfere with GPS tracking.
Date: 5/14/2018. No warranty is made from LVMPD or Mountain Project as to the accuracy, reliability, or completeness of this data for individual use or aggregate use with other data.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Jugs on Drugs
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 2
Old Fashioned
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 37
Spark Plug
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Hybrid Drive
Trad 8 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 16
Cutting Edge
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 11
Smooth as Silk
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 132
Refried Brains
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 2
American Flesh Dance (Combinatio…
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
 13
Sandstone Samurai
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 97
Rock Warrior
Trad 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 374
Prince of Darkness
Trad, Sport 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 97
Yellow Brick Road
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Steel Monkey
Trad 11 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 765
Dream of Wild Turkeys
Trad 10 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 169
The Gobbler
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 192
Fiddler on the Roof
Trad 7 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
The Fiddler Roof
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 73
Overhanging Hangover
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 27
Johnny Come Lately
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 583
Sour Mash
Trad 6 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
My Little Pony
Trad 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 3
Velveeta
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
Sourpuss
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 3
Malicious Mischief
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 21
Norepinephrine
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1,481
Epinephrine
Trad 13 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jugs on Drugs
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Old Fashioned
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 5 pitches
Spark Plug
 37
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hybrid Drive
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Cutting Edge
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Smooth as Silk
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Refried Brains
 132
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
American Flesh Dance (Combi…
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Sandstone Samurai
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X Trad 5 pitches
Rock Warrior
 97
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 6 pitches
Prince of Darkness
 374
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 6 pitches
Yellow Brick Road
 97
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 5 pitches
Steel Monkey
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 11 pitches
Dream of Wild Turkeys
 765
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 10 pitches
The Gobbler
 169
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Fiddler on the Roof
 192
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 7 pitches
The Fiddler Roof
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Overhanging Hangover
 73
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Johnny Come Lately
 27
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Sour Mash
 583
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
My Little Pony
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 7 pitches
Velveeta
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 5 pitches
Sourpuss
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Malicious Mischief
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 5 pitches
Norepinephrine
 21
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Epinephrine
 1,481
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 13 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Black Velvet Peak moonset
[Hide Photo] Black Velvet Peak moonset
Climbers on pitch 3 of Wild Turkeys and myself (at the bottom of the photo) on the 2nd pitch of POD.  Photo taken by Darshan Ahluwalia
[Hide Photo] Climbers on pitch 3 of Wild Turkeys and myself (at the bottom of the photo) on the 2nd pitch of POD. Photo taken by Darshan Ahluwalia
All the routes on Black Velvet Canyon. Part of the Mont Blanc Lines poster series.
[Hide Photo] All the routes on Black Velvet Canyon. Part of the Mont Blanc Lines poster series.
Keith Phelps running it out on Sandstone Samurai
[Hide Photo] Keith Phelps running it out on Sandstone Samurai
Black Velvet Wall
[Hide Photo] Black Velvet Wall
A typical day in the Velvet.  <br>
<br>
Red = Prince of Darkness, Green = Fiddler on the Roof, Purple = Dream of Wild Turkeys, Blue = Epinepherine
[Hide Photo] A typical day in the Velvet. Red = Prince of Darkness, Green = Fiddler on the Roof, Purple = Dream of Wild Turkeys, Blue = Epinepherine
Black Velvet Wall.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Black Velvet Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
On approach to Black Velvet Wall
[Hide Photo] On approach to Black Velvet Wall
Panorama of BVW using fisheye projection over 4 images.
[Hide Photo] Panorama of BVW using fisheye projection over 4 images.
Black Velvet Wall from the top of Black Tower.
[Hide Photo] Black Velvet Wall from the top of Black Tower.
If you climbed a few routes right of epinephrine on Valentine's Day 2016, I might have some pics of you. Maybe your name is Austin?
[Hide Photo] If you climbed a few routes right of epinephrine on Valentine's Day 2016, I might have some pics of you. Maybe your name is Austin?
September 2004.
[Hide Photo] September 2004.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Hi all- I'm not seeing, in the roster of routes, a route called something like "7 Samaurai", which I remember doing (Boy, do I remember that one) a long time ago, in the late 80's or maybe early 90's? We were trying to climb something else nearby, and ended up on a route with 2-bolt belays and exactly 1 protection bolt 1/2 way between them, for maybe 5 pitches or so. We asked later at a local climbing shop what the heck that was (not in our guidebook) and they said we'd just done maybe the 2nd ascent of a newish route. Did I just dream this?? Do I have the name all wrong? It was one of the most memorable climbs in my so-far 30 years of climbing.... Help an old man remember- thanks! tim hansen, estes park, colorado Jul 30, 2009
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Sounds like Sandstone Samurai... Write it up! Jul 30, 2009
[Hide Comment] I got to thinking that I'm not at all sure when we did this climb- might have been earlier yet. At any rate, I'm sure a local can write this route up way better than I can, I remember it being somewhat L of center on the wall (or near Rock Warrior??), with a spot of 5.11 on the 1st pitch, and then 3, or 4, or 5? more pitches of maybe solid 5.9, on the usual great rock, but only 1 bolt 75' out from each belay. There was no chalk on this route, and I felt fortunate to find these single bolts out in the middle of nowhere! Was also able to occasionally get an RP (small nut) in now and then, just to dial the fear factor down a little. Just wondering why it is not included in the BVW roster of routes?


Jul 31, 2009
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] No in the route database because it is probably done like 1-2 times per year if that. Sounds like a step up from rock warrior as far as commitment. Jul 31, 2009
[Hide Comment] Excellent route if you're up to it, but I recommend that you be climbing at least solid 11,if not 12, with a lot of previous successful run-outs on 5.10 under your belt before attempting this one. Tiny slings and other creative gear placements are also helpful. I wonder if the bolts on it are even safe anymore?? Would be a trade route with up-dated, and added, bolts, but of course this is up to the 1st ascensionists and local climbing community. Anyway- very bold route in it's day, just happened to remember it for no particular reason and tried to look it up here. I see that it is described in "Red Rocks Select", by Todd Swain, 1995. BVW is one of the best, anywhere, in my book! Aug 10, 2009
[Hide Comment] Climbed an "approach" pitch which we thought was P1 of Yellow Rose. Book said to climb to a crack with one bolt. Really sandy and felt much harder than 10a...any idea what this might be? Mar 18, 2012
yann gauthier
val david