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Routes in Hunter S. Thompson Dome

Chrome Dome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Eights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
De-Nogginizer, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear & Loathing II T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Gonzo Dogs T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liquid God T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mother's Milk S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runout Rodeo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Squire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walking the Vertical Beach T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This wall is a taller 'adventure wall' relative to some of the others in the area, like the Black Corridor and Sweet Pain Wall.

There are a mix of routes here, including gear and bolted lines, but some of the more attractive lines are in fact mixed, with a few bolts here and there, but certainly requiring some gear to feel sanely protected. The routes here range from 5.9 to 5.12, with the hardest of these having bolts at the cruxes.

This wall get's mixed shade and sun, but the lower part of the wall and belay tended towards shade early and late in the winter days.

The descent from the taller routes on this crag consists of walking and scrambling back and right down a gully or two and then traversing a very exposed rock slope (4th class, leave the sticky rubber on) to reach the base, or a very protracted gully-whack the long way down. The cliff is not well advised for less experienced climbers.

The best route that I did on this cliff was Gonzo Dogs (10-). Walking the Vertical Beach was a little loose, but nice. Runout Rodeo was also fun. I have not done the harder lines here.

Unfortunately, several people have seen it fit to use the gully at the base (the most natural and safe belay) as a latrine. Belaying off of the ridge behind the gully can be dangerous without a tiedown point. A lead-fall can suck the belayer off of it and drop then into the gully, over 3 meters- possibly letting go of the rope.

If you go to do the longest routes on the wall, take a 70M rope and stretch it create beautiful 222-235' pitches while avoiding bogus belays.

Getting There

Climb up through the top of Sweet Pain wall and though it's top, turning right at the base of HST Dome, Just below 'Walking the Vertical Beach' or up though the top of the Black Corridor, turning left to reach HTS Dome.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hunter S. Thompson Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 83
Mother's Milk
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 121
Crazy Eights
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 83
Chrome Dome
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 56
Squire
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 64
The De-Nogginizer
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mother's Milk
 83
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Crazy Eights
 121
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Chrome Dome
 83
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Squire
 56
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The De-Nogginizer
 64
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hunter S. Thompson Dome »

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