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Hunter S. Thompson Dome Rock Climbing
Routes in Hunter S. Thompson Dome
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Chrome Dome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crazy Eights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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De-Nogginizer, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fear & Loathing II T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Gonzo Dogs T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Liquid God T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mother's Milk S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Runout Rodeo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Squire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Walking the Vertical Beach T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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| Elevation: | 4,201 ft |
| GPS: |
36.15631, -115.43649 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 29,741 total · 127/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 20, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This wall is a taller 'adventure wall' relative to some of the others in the area, like the Black Corridor and Sweet Pain Wall.
There are a mix of routes here, including gear and bolted lines, but some of the more attractive lines are in fact mixed, with a few bolts here and there, but certainly requiring some gear to feel sanely protected. The routes here range from 5.9 to 5.12, with the hardest of these having bolts at the cruxes.
This wall get's mixed shade and sun, but the lower part of the wall and belay tended towards shade early and late in the winter days.
The descent from the taller routes on this crag consists of walking and scrambling back and right down a gully or two and then traversing a very exposed rock slope (4th class, leave the sticky rubber on) to reach the base, or a very protracted gully-whack the long way down. The cliff is not well advised for less experienced climbers.
The best route that I did on this cliff was Gonzo Dogs (10-). Walking the Vertical Beach was a little loose, but nice. Runout Rodeo was also fun. I have not done the harder lines here.
Unfortunately, several people have seen it fit to use the gully at the base (the most natural and safe belay) as a latrine. Belaying off of the ridge behind the gully can be dangerous without a tiedown point. A lead-fall can suck the belayer off of it and drop then into the gully, over 3 meters- possibly letting go of the rope.
If you go to do the longest routes on the wall, take a 70M rope and stretch it create beautiful 222-235' pitches while avoiding bogus belays.
There are a mix of routes here, including gear and bolted lines, but some of the more attractive lines are in fact mixed, with a few bolts here and there, but certainly requiring some gear to feel sanely protected. The routes here range from 5.9 to 5.12, with the hardest of these having bolts at the cruxes.
This wall get's mixed shade and sun, but the lower part of the wall and belay tended towards shade early and late in the winter days.
The descent from the taller routes on this crag consists of walking and scrambling back and right down a gully or two and then traversing a very exposed rock slope (4th class, leave the sticky rubber on) to reach the base, or a very protracted gully-whack the long way down. The cliff is not well advised for less experienced climbers.
The best route that I did on this cliff was Gonzo Dogs (10-). Walking the Vertical Beach was a little loose, but nice. Runout Rodeo was also fun. I have not done the harder lines here.
Unfortunately, several people have seen it fit to use the gully at the base (the most natural and safe belay) as a latrine. Belaying off of the ridge behind the gully can be dangerous without a tiedown point. A lead-fall can suck the belayer off of it and drop then into the gully, over 3 meters- possibly letting go of the rope.
If you go to do the longest routes on the wall, take a 70M rope and stretch it create beautiful 222-235' pitches while avoiding bogus belays.
Classic Climbing Routes at Hunter S. Thompson Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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