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Areas in 14-First Creek Canyon

Alcohol Wall 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
First Creek Slabs 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Labyrinth Wall 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 6
Lotta Balls Wall 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Lower Slot Club Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Mudterm Area 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Romper Room 9 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Schoolyard, The 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Slippery Buttress 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Slippery Peak 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Slot Club Wall 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Strawberry Hill Buttress 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.

93 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 14-First Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 49
Rising Moons
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 124
Doobie Dance
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 143
Romper Room
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 49
Algae on Parade
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 59
Lady Luck
Trad 7 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
Kindergarten Cop
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 428
Lotta Balls
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 298
Black Magic
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 54
Trihardral
4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 71
Hot Flash
Trad 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Bruja's Brew
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 51
Rob Roy
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 53
Gin Ricky
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
 43
Mai Tai
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 19
Straight Shot
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rising Moons First Creek Slabs
 49
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Doobie Dance Romper Room
 124
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Romper Room Romper Room
 143
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Algae on Parade Romper Room
 49
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Lady Luck First Creek Slabs
 59
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Kindergarten Cop Romper Room
 45
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lotta Balls Lotta Balls Wall
 428
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Black Magic Lotta Balls Wall
 298
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Trihardral Lotta Balls Wall
 54
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 4 pitches
Hot Flash First Creek Slabs
 71
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 10 pitches
Bruja's Brew Lotta Balls Wall
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Rob Roy Alcohol Wall
 51
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Gin Ricky Alcohol Wall
 53
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Mai Tai Alcohol Wall
 43
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad
Straight Shot Alcohol Wall
 19
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in 14-First Creek Canyon »

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