Elevation: 3,644 ft
GPS: 36.081, -115.448 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 153,306 total · 849/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 16, 2004 with updates from JSH
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.

Getting There

Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.

95 Total Climbs

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Location: 14-First Creek Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at 14-First Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 49
Rising Moons
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 134
Doobie Dance
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 154
Romper Room
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 52
Algae on Parade
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 64
Lady Luck
Trad 7 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 50
Kindergarten Cop
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 451
Lotta Balls
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 314
Black Magic
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 59
Trihardral
4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 74
Hot Flash
Trad 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
Bruja's Brew
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
Rob Roy
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 59
Gin Ricky
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
 45
Mai Tai
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 21
Straight Shot
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rising Moons First Creek Slabs
 49
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Doobie Dance Romper Room
 134
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Romper Room Romper Room
 154
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Algae on Parade Romper Room
 52
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Lady Luck First Creek Slabs
 64
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Kindergarten Cop Romper Room
 50
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lotta Balls Lotta Balls Wall
 451
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Black Magic Lotta Balls Wall
 314
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Trihardral Lotta Balls Wall
 59
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 4 pitches
Hot Flash First Creek Slabs
 74
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 10 pitches
Bruja's Brew Lotta Balls Wall
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Rob Roy Alcohol Wall
 53
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Gin Ricky Alcohol Wall
 59
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Mai Tai Alcohol Wall
 45
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad
Straight Shot Alcohol Wall
 21
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in 14-First Creek Canyon »

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Becca Simeone
Golden, CO
Becca Simeone   Golden, CO
Careful parking your car here. We got back to the car less than an hour after dark and had already been broken into, camping gear and more stolen. Just a heads up! Oct 14, 2018