Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is one of the most beautiful canyons in Red Rock. The ultra-classic Solar Slab is near the mouth of the canyon. This is actually a huge buttress facing generally south or southeast. On the upstream side of the buttress is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater, lying to the west of the slab.

The south side of the canyon mouth is dominated by the Cactus Flower Tower and its associated Blood Wall and Oakey Buttress.

Further upstream, on the north side of the canyon, one finds the sweeping Painted Bowl, Eagle Wall, and Celebration Wall. In this area are local classics such as Rainbow Buttress and Levitation 29. The beautiful slabs in the upper part of the canyon are worth the hike (or you can pass them on the descent from the summit area of Rainbow Mountain). Oak Creek's southern branches are an area of complex topography and few recorded climbs.

Getting There

To get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles.

An alternative approach avoids the scenic loop. Park on Highway 159 about a half mile south of the exit gate from the scenic loop road. A hikers' gate in the barbed wire fence leads to a trail that heads straight west into Oak Creek Canyon. The trail stays to the north of the Oak Creek wash and joins up with the main trail just before reaching the mouth of the canyon.

100 Total Climbs

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Location: 12-Oak Creek Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at 12-Oak Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 587
Solar Slab
Trad 9 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 632
Johnny Vegas
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 70
Rainbow Buttress
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 222
Beulah's Book
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Sundog
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 40
Sunflower
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
The Friar
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 53
Arch Enemy
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 267
Black Orpheus
Trad 8 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
Solar Flare
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+
 123
Eagle Dance
Trad, Sport, Aid 11 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 62
Red Zinger
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 32
The Warrior
Trad 7 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 426
Levitation 29
Trad, Sport 9 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 3
Venipuncture
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Solar Slab Solar Slab - Upper Tier
 587
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 9 pitches
Johnny Vegas Solar Slab - Lower Tier
 632
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Rainbow Buttress Eagle Wall
 70
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 8 pitches
Beulah's Book Solar Slab - Lower Tier
 222
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Sundog Solar Slab - Upper Tier
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Sunflower Solar Slab - Upper Tier
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 6 pitches
The Friar Friar & Byrd Pinnacle
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Arch Enemy Solar Slab - Upper Tier
 53
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Black Orpheus Black Orpheus Amphith…
 267
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 8 pitches
Solar Flare Solar Slab - Lower Tier
 55
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Eagle Dance Eagle Wall
 123
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+ Trad, Sport, Aid 11 pitches
Red Zinger Friar & Byrd Pinnacle
 62
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
The Warrior Cactus Flower T… > Cactus Flower Tower S…
 32
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 7 pitches
Levitation 29 Eagle Wall
 426
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 9 pitches
Venipuncture Cactus Flower T… > Blood Wall
 3
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in 12-Oak Creek Canyon »

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