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16-Black Velvet Canyon Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 3,885 ft |
| GPS: | 36.035, -115.45 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 489,681 total · 2,806/month |
| Shared By: | M. Morley on Feb 16, 2004 |
| Admins: | Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description [Suggest Change]
Black Velvet Canyon could well be called the crown jewel of Red Rocks. The black, varnished rock is of the highest quality and its walls host a high concentration of excellent and longer trade routes. With walls over 2,000 feet high, the canyon receives little sunlight and as such can be quite a bit cooler than other areas. Area classics include Epinephrine (V 5.9, 12-18 pitches), Prince of Darkness (5.10c), Frogland (5.8), Triassic Sands (5.10c), Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a), Yellow Brick Road (5.10a), Refried Brains (5.9) and many others that I haven't yet climbed. As expected, the classics tend to be crowded (especially Frogland, Prince of Darkness, and Epinephrine). It is recommended to have an alternative in mind should there be a queue for your desired route.
Many routes require two ropes to rappel.
Camping is NOT permitted at the trailhead (parking area) and violators will be ticketed. Legal camping can be found 2 miles east of the Visitor Center on Hwy 159 for $10 per night per site.
IMPORTANT: Waste bags are provided by the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council in order to reduce human waste issues at the crags and boulders. Please feel free to take one, use as directed, and dispose of in any trash receptacle. Please do not leave them lying around, and do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas. The project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club's Cornerstone Conservation Grant, with additional funding from the Access Fund and Mountain Gear. Please do your part to be a good steward of this amazing climbing area.
Many routes require two ropes to rappel.
Camping is NOT permitted at the trailhead (parking area) and violators will be ticketed. Legal camping can be found 2 miles east of the Visitor Center on Hwy 159 for $10 per night per site.
IMPORTANT: Waste bags are provided by the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council in order to reduce human waste issues at the crags and boulders. Please feel free to take one, use as directed, and dispose of in any trash receptacle. Please do not leave them lying around, and do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas. The project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club's Cornerstone Conservation Grant, with additional funding from the Access Fund and Mountain Gear. Please do your part to be a good steward of this amazing climbing area.
Getting There [Suggest Change]
Unlike much of the Red Rocks area, Black Velvet Canyon is NOT accessed via the Scenic Loop Road. Instead, from the Red Rock Canyon Campground (a.k.a. "13 Mile Campground"), drive southeast on Hwy 159. At the intersection with Hwy 160 (gas station w/ good beer selection), turn right (west) for approximately 4.5 miles towards Pahrump. Be on the lookout for a pullout and road on the right-hand (north) side. There is a paved parking lot here (called the "Latenight Trailhead" by the mountain bike set) with rest rooms. Follow the dirt road north from the parking area. After a mile or two the road makes a left turn (west) at a usually closed gate and ends at a parking area near the mouth of the canyon. Although fairly bumpy, 2WD vehicles **should** be okay on this road. Park and follow the well-defined trail from here. Count on a half hour to 1 hour for approach.
Classic Climbing Routes at 16-Black Velvet Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
12 Comments
More About 16-Black Velvet Canyon
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Guidebooks (13)
Las Vegas, NV
Poughkeepsie, NY
The turn-off is at (36 deg 00 min 35.5 sec) North, (115 deg 25 min 55.55 sec) West. Apr 15, 2009
Boulder, CO
Bridgton, Maine
Toronto, ON
We did the dirt road to parking in a front wheel drive rental and one time on a rear donut (lol, long story). Required getting out of the car to move some midsized rocks by hands, and occasionally needed a spotter for clearance in front of car, and came out in the dark each time, but was fine, unless new beta says washed out or deeper ruts. There's 2 parking lot sections, the upper one (which brings you a whole 100 yards closer..) was inaccessible without high clearance but not a big deal. Dec 23, 2014
Durango, CO
I was in a rental with nothing in sight, although there was evidence they tried to pry the doors open, and there were dents from rocks being thrown at the vehicle.
We passed a ranger on the way out, and he said they may have to think about trail cameras for the future.
Might be best to either avoid this place unless you've got good insurance, or leave nothing in your car and the windows down! (Walk from Late Night TH??)
I won't be returning in my vehicle, that's for sure! Feb 12, 2018
GA
Also, those break-ins are a unnerving to hear about! Thanks for the heads up, Gary. Feb 17, 2018