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13: Four Brothers

Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E Rampart

Description

Four Brothers is located to the south (down the slope) from the Leaning Tower Gully. The formation contains a handful of moderate climbs and sees less use than other spots along the East Rampart.

Getting There

To access Four Brothers hike up the CCC Trail and turn right at Pedestal Buttress and contine on around D'Arcy's Buttress. You're now walking west along the top of the cliff. Once you reach Leaning Tower Gully descend the gully. At the bottom of the gully find the climbers trail heading down the slope away from the main cliff. Here you will find the Four Brothers formation.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● बहिनी (Bahini - Little Sister)…
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
● Family Jewels
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 18
● Gravel Pit
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 23
● Foliage
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
● Zot
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
● Catalepsy
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 6
● Decadence
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● बहिनी (Bahini - Little Sist…
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
● Family Jewels
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Gravel Pit
 18
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● Foliage
 23
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● Zot
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
● Catalepsy
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Decadence
 6
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Four Brothers toprope anchor locations
[Hide Photo] Four Brothers toprope anchor locations
Family Jewels can either start on Gravel Pit or on the left pedestal, depending on which guide book you use. The Mic is a 5.11a variation in Swartling. Mary's Face is a named route in Swartling and an unnamed variation in Knower.
[Hide Photo] Family Jewels can either start on Gravel Pit or on the left pedestal, depending on which guide book you use. The Mic is a 5.11a variation in Swartling. Mary's Face is a named route in Swartling and…
Zot, Catalepsy and Decadence. Decadence is partially hidden in this pic by a prominent rock rib. The 5.7 variation is listed in Swarling as a variation of Foliage - to me it looks more like an alternate start to Zot, but what do I know?
[Hide Photo] Zot, Catalepsy and Decadence. Decadence is partially hidden in this pic by a prominent rock rib. The 5.7 variation is listed in Swarling as a variation of Foliage - to me it looks more like an alte…
Foliage.
[Hide Photo] Foliage.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
[Hide Comment] This is a nice little spot to get away from the crowd and where you can teach a beginning climber to lead without an audience. There are two easy climbs (Gravel Pit 5.4 and Foliage 5.5) that have lots of pro placements. Aug 19, 2007