Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

10: Moldy Buttress

Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E Rampart

Description

Moldy Buttress is a smaller formation containing a handful of good climbs. Climbs here range in difficulty from 5.2 to 5.12b.

Getting There

To access Moldy Buttress hike up the CCC trail and turn left at Pedestal Buttress. Hike along the climbers trail about 300 feet west. Moldy Buttress is situated between Many Pines Buttress and Bill's Buttress.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 7
● Roofus
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 11
● Verticulture
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 22
● Horticulture
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
● Tibia Crack
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
● Fibula Cracks
TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 12
● Cul de Sac Exit
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 33
● Cul-de-Sac
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● Mother of Pearl
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Hales Corner
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
● Nine-Minus
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
● Eleven-Minus
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
● Fungus
TR
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 11
● Lichen
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
● Lichen Planus
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Roofus
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
● Verticulture
 11
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● Horticulture
 22
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● Tibia Crack
 30
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Fibula Cracks
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
● Cul de Sac Exit
 12
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad
● Cul-de-Sac
 33
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Mother of Pearl
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Hales Corner
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
● Nine-Minus
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Eleven-Minus
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
● Fungus
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
● Lichen
 11
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad
● Lichen Planus
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Top of Moldy buttress as viewed from East Bluff Trail. You could easily walk right past this one without noticing it because it's smaller and doesn't jut out like other buttresses along the trail.
[Hide Photo] Top of Moldy buttress as viewed from East Bluff Trail. You could easily walk right past this one without noticing it because it's smaller and doesn't jut out like other buttresses along the…
View of the top of Two Pines Buttress. <br> <br> (The top between Nine-Minus and Fungus is dirty and has 2 weed covered ledges. I placed my anchor for Eleven-Minus to the left so the rope fell nicely on the route, but I finished the climb the same as Nine-Minus.
[Hide Photo] View of the top of Two Pines Buttress. (The top between Nine-Minus and Fungus is dirty and has 2 weed covered ledges. I placed my anchor for Eleven-Minus to the left so the rope fell nicely on t…
For Lichen, the Swartling book says to climb one of the large flakes. If you start up the right flake, the top is dirty and overgrown so traversing to one of the routes on the left would be a more enjoyable finish.
[Hide Photo] For Lichen, the Swartling book says to climb one of the large flakes. If you start up the right flake, the top is dirty and overgrown so traversing to one of the routes on the left would be a more…
Moldy Buttress left-most routes. <br> <br> (Horticulture has a couple other possible starts left of the one shown here.)
[Hide Photo] Moldy Buttress left-most routes. (Horticulture has a couple other possible starts left of the one shown here.)
Moldy Buttress - center and right side. The top between the lines for Eleven-Minus and Fungus is pretty dirty and has 2 weed covered ledges.
[Hide Photo] Moldy Buttress - center and right side. The top between the lines for Eleven-Minus and Fungus is pretty dirty and has 2 weed covered ledges.